On my first build I let the string pressure hold the lid down and it seems to work fine, no glue or screws.  I am hoping this will work on the next one also. I'm just wondering what the rest of you do, glue it screw it or leave it alone? Is there any advantage to attaching the lid to tightly to the box?

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I screw the lids on.Makes removal a LOT easier if needed. I will put four 1/2" 'posts' glued to the sides, either in the corners or 1/3 the way in from the corners (on the sides). I make sure they don't touch the bottom as not to dampen the sound. Then I make pilot holes and screw the lids on. Gluing would be a pain to remove if I had to get back inside.

Oh, I also but the lids off if they are paper hinged. I will also remove the metal hinges if they are there.

-WY
Tiny drill bit, tiny screw.
Put'em the same place they put the lil nail.

Matt
Definitely screws. Wes has a good idea to not let the post come in contact with the bottom.
I hold mine closed with a bolt and nut. I want to be able to get inside and tinker around. So I like the flexability of not gluing it shut.
leave it as is, unless you get vibration, rattle, or a lid that curls... then its tiny brass brads like comes with the box originally..
Thanks guys, I guess ever box is a bit different in what it may need. Leaving number one alone, will see how number two works out.
For me it just depends on the box. I like being able to open the box for "service" or just to be able to open it cause it is a cigar box. Put a sandwich in there or something! But it needs to sound good, so I try to use the side of the box that is the thinest as the top for the best vibration. If the bottom of the box is thinner, I will usually flip it over and use the bottom or back of the box as the soundboard, which also allows me to open the box, even with the strings on. I see no reason to ever glue a box shut. If there was a rattle issue or the like, I would fix it with screws.
I too add small scrap pieces cut to fit in the each corner of the box ( glued in).Then I screw in small screws that I can back out if I need to get inside later on.
Mostly this is for my customers convenience if they choose to add a piezo or something later on.Unless I run into a problem , once I button it up I dont go inside again.The plan is to always have it sold within a week or 2.
I had a cute little 1 string tin that I thought would sell quickly , been around the shop for 2 months,. Today I took the tin off and changed it to a cigarbox 1 stringer.Hopefully it'll sell now, this is something I very seldom do, but if its not going to move as is, its gotta go somehow.
Lately I glue a just-a-bit-too-short piece of quarter round in each corner of the box. Then when it is time to close it up, a wood screw in each corner holds it nice and tight.
XActly guys!
Thats what I meant too except you guys explained it better then I did, lol
I'm much too cheap to buy 1/4 round though.I rip down scraps left over from building the necks for the bracing I do.
I've been thinking of using the screw-on brass corners, but we'll see...
If you are building acoustically, glue it shut. I am assuming the lid is the back. The purpose of the sound box is to support the sound board (back of the box) and act as a resonate chamber. The sound board needs to vibrate and transfer sound. If the sides of box are really strong enough to act as a frame, the lid could be left open or even removed so the instrument could operate more like an open backed banjo. Structure is certainly key. Strong support, with a thin vibrating top. Enjoy.

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