Do any of you or have any of you varnished over the cigar box labels to help protect them? I think I'd like to pit a finish over some, but not sure how it well effect the labels.

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I just use clear spray I get from Wallyworld.Its cheap and works fine.
If I want to make a box look old (wood),I put on a little colored finish and then wipe some black shoe dye on,wait a few soeconds and then wipe MOST of it back off.When its done the box takes on an older aged look that I like.Makes a plain box look more interesting.to me
Paul, I would like this question answered also, so I'll post and maybe bump it up. Some of the most beautiful boxes are the ones with outer paper labels. I'd like to know how to glue down the loose edges solidly and then protect the whole thing so as to make it a playable, lasting instrument.
I've used clear laquer and/or clear spray on most of my boxes (labels and all) with great results. I've even used it on some paper covered boxes to protect and add a little gloss. I've had very good luck with the Valspar (sp?) products sold at Lowes. If the edges of the label or paper "trim" is trying to lift off, I use a little dab of Elmers or CA glue to hold it back down prior to spraying the box. Hope this helps. - T
I've also used some elmers white glue to hold down lifted edges and it works well after all it is made for gluing paper. I have not cleard any of my box's ( I like them natural) But I have used clear sprays on other things and they should work fine, krylon or valspar. You can get gloss or a semi gloss finish in clear. Go to town and spray away.
Well this is an old thread come alive. I have not done anything with the labels other than glue down the loose pieces. My guitars with labels haven't been played much to they are holding up fine.
I have put shellac over a punch box in the French Polish style. Pain in the a55 to do but very nice.

-WY
I have been using elmer's white glue to stick down any peeling edges, and then Polycrylic water based polyurethane on the boxes and labels. Works great to keep them from pulling up and gives everything a nice hard to scratch finish. Just have to go light coats and watch for runs.
What is the "french polish" style?

Wes Yates said:
I have put shellac over a punch box in the French Polish style. Pain in the a55 to do but very nice.

-WY
I've used it. I think it is as good as any. Don't think I have used it on a CBG yet but wouldn't hesitate to do it.

Wes Yates said:
Paul Doug said:
What is the "french polish" style?

What is ze "French Polish?" Mon Dieu!

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Finishes_and_solvent...
Ooooo French Polish is a VERY nice method of producing a glass finish using shellac. Its a pain to master but when you do, its beautiful. IT takes a long time to apply and quite a good touch.

You apply a base (or body) coat of shellac (unwaxed and non-commercial grade) to the wood as a seal coat. Once dry and semi-cured (takes a day or two), you start to apply shellac using a pad. This is done in layers and layers of thin applications where the pad (muneca) is lightly damp. Olive oil is applied to the pad as well as a lubricant since the shellac can be very sticky. Layers are applied in 3-4 hour 'sessions'. The process might take a few days to weeks depending on the result desired. I liken the technique to shining shoes with wax and cloth.

Once hard (48-72 hrs) the finish can be buffed further with buffing compound.

If done properly, the result is a very high gloss finish that is unsurpassed BUT if you are in a rush, fugettaboutit. Its great and last a long time but very hard to control unless you know what to do.

Here is a great link to a site that taught me.

-WY

Paul Doug said:
What is the "french polish" style?
Wes Yates said:
I have put shellac over a punch box in the French Polish style. Pain in the a55 to do but very nice.

-WY

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