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Permalink Reply by jim on November 6, 2009 at 6:35pm

great builds take a little time man, slow down , also final finishes need cure time , sometime weeks to lose tack , then slick as glass.

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Permalink Reply by Tres Seaver on November 7, 2009 at 2:51am

I had the same experience with the Minwax ebony stain: I think I put it on too thick the first time, expecting to get a truly solid black finish. I wound up wiping it down with a rag full of mineral spirits, then buffing with steel wool and applied another (much thinner) coat.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on November 7, 2009 at 4:10am

Well, I'm the maverick in the Nation here... he he. I used to use Minwax oil based polyurethane and the clear coat but now I'm using shellac. Not a stain, but as the clear coat. I'm also doing French Polish (or shall I say my bastardization of French Polish) and it's coming out REALLY well. Especially when you want that "glass" look. But as jim replied, It takes T-I-M-E. I left out for two days and the shellac is still workable. Needs a week or so to 'cure' properly but welll worth it if that's what you're going for.

There is a discussion going on now and reposted in the 'Secrets if the CBG Undergound' that talks about stains - especially 'ebonizing' wood. We have an opinion that says shoe polish or leather stain could work. Haven't tried it, but it sounds reasonable. I have also tried inkjet printer ink. Worked well but use gloves. That stuff really stains.

Me, I would steer clear of combo stain/finish products. Too hard to control stain depth and finish at the same time. Serious PITA.

Also water based stains might raise the grain, which of course the vinegar/steel wool solution does too, so ... I'm contradicting myself. Anyhow... if you come across a good solution, post it in the discussion.

-Wes

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Permalink Reply by Brendan deVallance on November 7, 2009 at 9:27am

Im not an expert but I used Tung Oil on my CBG (at the recommendation of many builders here) and it came out great. I used about 3 coats on the neck and I would recommend that. Looks and feels great and widely available. Polyurethane is durable, but sort of like coating it in plastic. Several light coats is preferable to thick coats no matter what you use. —B

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Permalink Reply by Old Lowe on November 7, 2009 at 6:02pm

I use minwax for my stains and I use something weird for my finish.
It is water based floor finish it dries in about 10 minutes and I mean dry enough to sand in 10 minutes and it comes in satin and glossy.
I only have the satin right now next can i get will be glossy.
It is tougher than poly I think and I have been using the same foam brush for about 6 months just wash it out in the sink.
Here's a link to the product.
I get it at lowes it is about 50 bucks for a gallon can but I aint ever going back to poly.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=661&SBL=1

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