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Well then. It all comes down to the sum of all parameters. As I’ve understood a piano and its tuning is a compromise too. I played the violin for some years and that’s a tough instrument for beginners. It’s so NOT rewarding. Takes many years before it sounds decent (I’m not really there yet). The guitar on the other hand lets you focus on your playing immediately. I like that.
Even though I’m building a stick in a box I like to think of the physics and mechanics to it. I don’t mind having a bolt for a bridge but when I start I just can’t stop myself from overdoing it. Why not make your own bridge when you´re at it…
On the violin there are three types of strings. Steel, synthetic and gut. When you’ve played on steel strings and change to synthetics it feels like you´ve mounted rubber bands on your instrument. Especially when you tune it up. You wind and wind and very little happens. They are elastic and I guess it’s the same with nylon strings too. My guess at this topic is, as Ron mentioned, that the stretchiness of the nylon strings makes it less sensitive to bending. Taking it to the extremes would be to compare it with a rubber band. You have to do really big manoevers with it in order to change its tone when you pluck it. My guess is also that when you make a vibrato on a nylon stringed classical guitar you have to do bigger moves with your finger. But of this I don’t know anything to be honest. I´m not a guitarist and I don’t have a guitar to check it.
I do love playing what I’ve built though and could do it for days if I had the opportunity J
Thank you all for your answers. I feel wiser now and I think I’ll just go for some light steel strings on my next build.
:-)
Some great input here. Regarding the banjo bridge (from Gitty or anywhere else), although the bridge is not visibly "compensated" but rather a straight edge, it's placement on the soundboard relative to the strings is not perpendicular like on a classical nylon string guitar or ukulele. The banjo bridge, when positioned properly, will have a slight angle relative to the strings.
As an example, if your scale length is 25" on a four string banjo, the distance from nut to bridge at string 1 (smallest) will be approx. 1/8" further from nut than scale length (25.109" plus or minus .030") and distance from nut to bridge on the 4th string (top or closest to player) will be slightly further away from nut...approx. 25.193" plus or minus .030"
This info is directly from the fretting calculator page of www.stewmac.com
Nylon string guitars and ukuleles almost always do not have a compensated bridge. Instead the bridge/saddle are perpendicular to strings (straight bridge, not angled)
Banjo strings are different in a couple ways. But essentially, they are similar to acoustic guitar strings (not solid nylon like classical or ukulele) and banjo strings have a loop end for connecting to the tail piece...not the ball end like seen on electric or many acoustic steel strings.
Hope this helps. Cheers
Yah ... I know the feeling. I want to do a classical build ... but ... There is the six string with Strat style pickup and P-90 to do .. And the twelve string with rod Piezo and preamp and Strat style pickup .... And the Sherwin Williams Dobro ... And I would really really like to try out some Flatpups .... I think I have to retire and get more time.
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