I have a dremel tool and wondered which bit would be the best for making precise cuts in a CBG, such as F-holes or oval or rectangular cutouts for magnetic pickups.

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I use one of these but its not easy. I would suggest a scroll saw.

-WY
I agree with Wes,,
While it IS possible,I would go with a scroller too.
I glued a 'cover plate' from Lowe's onto my Dremel router base. Look on my worktable, toward the back on the right side.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/workshop-2-1?context=album&...
Ronnie, this is like a Where's Waldo.

-WY

Ronnie Retherford said:
I glued a 'cover plate' from Lowe's onto my Dremel router base. Look on my worktable, toward the back on the right side.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/workshop-2-1?context=album&...
If you really wanted to use the dremel, I might try this and the router base.

-WY
For ovals I've drilled a circular hole with a paddle bit and then used the sanding drum for the dremel to oval it out. Same with larger circles.
A Dremel is going to be a tough tool to use for the most part. I too recomend a scroll saw especially for f-holes. A band saw is a good tool to have as is a drill press. You can get decent table top band saws and drill presses for reasonable prices at HD of Lowes or on line. There is one set of tools however that I cant live without professionaly and in building CBG's and that is a set of forstner bits. They cut rather than drill holes perfectly. And with a flat bottom. I like to use a forstner on some of my guitars and mount a Georgia quarter. Fits perfectly. Good sets for good prices on MCLS.com. Another thing you can do, because I know times are tough, is get an inexpensive jig saw and mount it onto a board then inverted and used as a scroll saw. It isnt as nice a cut as a scroll saw but in a pinch it works very well. The same can be done with a router. Routers are every mans fun tool. Very versitile. You can also buy tables to mount routers in and maybe jigsaws also. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU TRY THIS ,BECAUSE THESE TOOLS WERENT REALLY MEANT TO BE USED THIS WAY. Here are some photos of my router/jigsaw set up. Very breathy and helpful I hope.
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Thanks for all the replys and ideas. Not in my budget to get a scroll saw at this time, but maybe in the future.

I have Bill Jehle's DVD on the String, Stick, and Box method, and took a look at his chapter about sound holes. He made a template for F-Holes, then cut the using the templae as a guide with a Dremel spiral cutting bit. I have one of these and was experimenting earler, but wasn't using a template, and I was also cutting between the middle and tip instead towards the base of the bit, which resulted in lots of gouging and chunks flying,

In the DVD, he also suggests drilling a crapload of holes drilled with a 1/16" bit, and cutting out he remainder of the shape with an exacto knife. I may give this a try as well.
there was a thread not long ago about cutting f holes. alot of people just drill several holes and then finish it out with a file.
buy one of the wood carving sets and use what ever bit/bits you are comfrotable with.
I know what its like to have a tight budget. Esspecially these days. But u can usually get a scroll saw at a pawn shop for around 20 bucks. I hear using new blades are the main ingrediant to good soundholes.

David Armstrong said:
Thanks for all the replys and ideas. Not in my budget to get a scroll saw at this time, but maybe in the future.

I have Bill Jehle's DVD on the String, Stick, and Box method, and took a look at his chapter about sound holes. He made a template for F-Holes, then cut the using the templae as a guide with a Dremel spiral cutting bit. I have one of these and was experimenting earler, but wasn't using a template, and I was also cutting between the middle and tip instead towards the base of the bit, which resulted in lots of gouging and chunks flying,

In the DVD, he also suggests drilling a crapload of holes drilled with a 1/16" bit, and cutting out he remainder of the shape with an exacto knife. I may give this a try as well.
I did a search for down-cut spiral router bits and found plenty, but nothing specifically for dremel. I could use one from another manufacturer; I'm pretty sure Dremel's have a 1/8" shank.

Dremel does have an engraving bit (#113) that looks similar. Might give that a try if I can find it in Home Depot/Lowes.

Randy S. Bretz said:
I use a down-cut bit on my dremel to do fancy soundhole designs. The down -cut bit is what is used to do inlay work on necks and pegheads. It makes a clean " no fuzz " cut. While they are alittle expensive, if you plan on doing alot of F-hole soundhole`s in upcoming builds it might be worth checking into. I use the dremel more than any other tool when building an instrument. Of coarse my builds get alot more details than most, also I use mine when I make my bone slides and bone works.

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