what measurement do you guy's use.
I dont have any set measurement ,I just cut what I think is ok ,say 4" to 5".cut corner to corner.
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In that video, Glenn Watt shows how he does it. He measures 3 inches twice, then draws a line corner to corner. It's how I do mine. Try to find the video on youtube if you can.
Well, Wikipedia and I have both been know to be wrong... from time to time...:-)
Out of curiousity, just measured a knockoff Hummingbird (12ish) and an Ovation Al Dimeola Signature (12-13ish). Granted, my measuring device was eyballing a rafter square, but it was in the ballpark.
Anyone interested in seeing how to cut a 17-18 degree scarf joint on a Harbor Freight $12 miter box?
Sorry, no video, but I do have pix.
Here's how to cut a farily steep (17 degrees or so) scarf joint using nothing more than a simple Harbor Freight $12 miter saw.
Place the stock in the miter jig with the corner directly in the 45 degree saw slot furtest away from you (see pic). Pull the other end toward you till it hits the jig wall. Hold firmly and saw away.
Assuming your stock is more than long enough, flip it around and repeat on the other end.
Flush saw one end to your chosen headstock length (this one is around 5 1/2") and, voila! One scarf joint.
A very useful tool for this is a simple sliding bevel gauge or bevel square, just mark your angle on the edge of the bench top with a length of wood placed at the angle you chose to the joint to be, then set your bevel to that angle,and that's your back cut angle. you can get cheap bevel squares for a couple of dollars at the big box hardwares, even the ones with a plastic body are up to this task
rule of thumb. The higher degree of angle in the scarf joint, the more down pressure on the nut. The lower degree of angle in the scarf joint, the stronger the joint.
That's why more Gibsons break at the headstock than Martins. Anything between 9* and 15* is workable. I prefer 10-11*.
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