Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on February 4, 2010 at 6:25pm

Well Peter, I'm gonna tell ya, folks around here like Titebond II. For a wood glue that is the best brand. Holds well and is strong. 99% of us here use it. DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE.

That said, I'm a big proponent of hide/gelatine glue for joints that are fine and might need to be removed one day. Titebond/Carpenters Glue is Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) and does not come apart unless subject to acetic acid (strong vinegar). Hide/gelatine glue needs heat and water. Plus hide/gelatine glue has a shrinking characteristic whereby it will pull the joint closed. PVA will not.

Supposedly hide or gelatine glues are stronger but also more brittle. PVA being vinyl, they are plastic based instead of collagen based.

BTW - unless you can't guess, I'm the 1% that might not use PVA glues -- tho I do use them on some applications such as neck laminations.

Oh did I mention DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE? Gorilla glue will expand and thus does not make a good glue for joints.

All in all use Titebond II and you'll be just fine.

-WY

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on February 4, 2010 at 6:27pm

Now that I see you are down under, you might not have Titebond II. If not, check with some of the other Aussies here and see what they use......

-WY

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on February 4, 2010 at 8:41pm

NOT Titebond II!!! It's a PVA glue and it tends to creep under load, use ordinary Titebond (the one with the red label - it's an aliphatic glue). That's probably fairly academic, as I have used PVA woodworking glues when I've run out of Titebond, but I've noticed that it dries very soft when compared to original Titebond. You may have to go to a specialist supplier rather than the hardware store to get it..I get mine from eBay!

Don't use epoxy unless you are glueing metal to wood.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on February 5, 2010 at 2:12am

Ahhhh, so solly. Titebond Wood glue then [red lable].

Which is an interesting point there as [apparently] Titebond wood glue an hide/gelatine glue don't creep.

-WY

ChickenboneJohn said:

NOT Titebond II!!! It's a PVA glue and it tends to creep under load, use ordinary Titebond (the one with the red label - it's an aliphatic glue). That's probably fairly academic, as I have used PVA woodworking glues when I've run out of Titebond, but I've noticed that it dries very soft when compared to original Titebond. You may have to go to a specialist supplier rather than the hardware store to get it..I get mine from eBay!
Don't use epoxy unless you are glueing metal to wood.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on February 5, 2010 at 2:15am

Titebond Wood Glue @ Lowes

-WY

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on February 5, 2010 at 2:54am

OK ..... let me rain on the parade.
Absolutely no disrespect meant to either of the wise old far .... gentlemen who have already answered.
I use Titebond II with no problems. My first laminated necl build was a fullscale 3 piece bass neck. I used gorilla glue and it is fine and strong..... and has been for 2 years.
That said ... when the Titebond II runs out I'll probably buy the regular Titebond.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on February 5, 2010 at 3:12am

Matt, you musta had ta clamp the sh17 out of the neck using Go-riller Glu. -WY

Matt Towe said:

OK ..... let me rain on the parade.
Absolutely no disrespect meant to either of the wise old far .... gentlemen who have already answered.
I use Titebond II with no problems. My first laminated necl build was a fullscale 3 piece bass neck. I used gorilla glue and it is fine and strong..... and has been for 2 years.
That said ... when the Titebond II runs out I'll probably buy the regular Titebond.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on February 5, 2010 at 3:55am

Yep, clamped it to a flat steel table with bar clamps, c clamps, bricks, cinder blocks, 50 lbs of barbell weights, a car, a couple of the neighbors kids, etc, etc, ...

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Peter Taylor on February 6, 2010 at 1:06am

Thanks for all your input, and experience, who ever said glues is just glues hey..
And good news too found a local distributor for Titebond too will go get some and give it a go,
Once again I am glad to be a Cigarbox nation member...

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on February 6, 2010 at 2:33am

Titebond 2.... use it for everything, except small parts like nuts and position markers... for that I used CA glue...

the best,

Wichita Sam

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Permalink Reply by Roger Martin on February 6, 2010 at 5:40am

I just use for the most part, Elmers wood glue.
Titebond works fine, but Elmers is easier to find around here.
I've never had a problem unless I hadnt clamped well.
I tried Gorilla Glue too. I didnt have problems with strength but I DID have major problems with cleanup due to its expansion properties.I dont use it anymore.
But would if I ran into a problem that called for a filler type glue.
All in all I cant recommend Gorilla.
The truth is I think, that we find a glue that works well for us and we stick to it.For me its Elmers.But like the guys said theres nothing wrong with Titebond except Elmers is easier to get my hands on.

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Permalink Reply by THENUGE on February 6, 2010 at 5:22pm

i have used elmer's and titebond and they both work fine...would like to try makin some hide glue sometime, and just used CA glue for the first time today. i glued a couple of loose frets on my buddies guitar and that stuff worked slicker 'n sh#!

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