Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Michael Gajeski on October 31, 2009 at 5:36pm

I would assume that the hardwoods, being more dense, would transfer vibration more effectively. Anything added to the top will dampen the vibration to a degree, so the smaller the bridge the better but I'm not sure that it makes much of a difference in the sound.

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Permalink Reply by Old Lowe on October 31, 2009 at 7:36pm

If you have red oak Use It
If you have Bois De Arc use it!
The harder the better as long as it's wood.
Metal isnt so great if your going for acoustic.

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Permalink Reply by Beer on November 1, 2009 at 1:14am

Okay, thanks. That's pretty much what I figured.

What about the nut? Same thing? I was thinking of taking a key and grinding the teeth off and cutting it the width of the neck. File a slot in the neck and going with that.

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Permalink Reply by jim on November 1, 2009 at 2:47am

bridge material and style/ type make a big diff. in sound/ tone. also bridge pressure comes into play effecting tone.

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on November 1, 2009 at 2:53am

I first started making bridges and nuts out of red oak. They sounded fine.
The guy at the guitar shop that wants to sell my CBG's asked me to try bone nuts.
I did. They look lots better, more professional, and the sustain may be better, but I really didn't notice a big difference in tone.

I am also gonna try a read oak bridge with a bone insert.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on November 1, 2009 at 3:13am

I've seen folks use the inserts from the box and construct a little footed bridge. Or a long footed bridge and still get lots of volume.

For me, sometimes it is trial and error. I've re-bridged an instrument a few times until I found the thing/shape that worked better/best.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on November 1, 2009 at 3:23am

If you are a traditionalist, an old skeleton key or threaded stock (bolt) with no "bridge" per se. But as the above folks mention, hard woods or bone are good. My string nuts and saddles are basically bone which is real easy to carve/shape and the bridges are oak with a piece of threaded stock. I have used a piece of aluminum "L" bar cut to about 2" and screwed to the lid and that works really well. You can make oblong slots for the screws so you can change intonation as needed. It too is easy to fashion with a saw and file. Take a look at my page.

Don't forget to look at what others have done! Check out the pics.

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on November 1, 2009 at 3:37am

I like hard wood cut with "foots" (ala banjo) for acoustics. Close second is a martin bridge saddle using corian for the saddle.

beyond that I have gotten great acoustic response from a 1/2 brass bar riding on a hardwood bridge...

errr... what are you cutting the nut from?

good luck,

Sam

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Permalink Reply by Paul Doug on November 1, 2009 at 4:42am

I like to use corian (counter top type). Easy to shape, polishes up beautifully and hundreds of colors to chose from.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on November 1, 2009 at 6:15am

Sam, Paul, how hard is corian to cut? I tried on the band saw a little and it seems ok, but will it dull the blade quickly? I have some pieces that I can use to make nuts with but don't want to spend the $20 per band blade every time I need a nut.

-Wes

Wichita Sam said:

I like hard wood cut with "foots" (ala banjo) for acoustics. Close second is a martin bridge saddle using corian for the saddle.
beyond that I have gotten great acoustic response from a 1/2 brass bar riding on a hardwood bridge... errr... what are you cutting the nut from?

good luck,

Sam

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Permalink Reply by Paul Doug on November 1, 2009 at 8:03am

I cut it on my band saw mostly. Haven't noticed it dulling the blade. I polish it up, after getting the shape I want and sanding smooth with 220 - 400 sandpaper, with micro mesh. I go from the 1800 through the 12000 grits. Goes quickly.

Wes Yates said:

Sam, Paul, how hard is corian to cut? I tried on the band saw a little and it seems ok, but will it dull the blade quickly? I have some pieces that I can use to make nuts with but don't want to spend the $20 per band blade every time I need a nut.

-Wes

Wichita Sam said:

I like hard wood cut with "foots" (ala banjo) for acoustics. Close second is a martin bridge saddle using corian for the saddle.
beyond that I have gotten great acoustic response from a 1/2 brass bar riding on a hardwood bridge... errr... what are you cutting the nut from?

good luck,

Sam

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on November 1, 2009 at 9:54am

Kewl. I have some and will try tonight. Thanks.

-Wes

Paul Doug said:
I cut it on my band saw mostly. Haven't noticed it dulling the blade. I polish it up, after getting the shape I want and sanding smooth with 220 - 400 sandpaper, with micro mesh. I go from the 1800 through the 12000 grits. Goes quickly.

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