Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by HOGS GRUNT on September 16, 2009 at 4:09am

Hi,
I have used polyurethane , put on thinly with rag-many coats. I have also used clear cellulose spray. I find they both work quite well.
I am about to try, on recommendation from a friend who is a cabinet maker, finishing oil. This is what he uses on his cabinets and also draining board countertops he has made. He has told me to put many coats on with a rag or brush, then remove any high spots with very fine paper, and apply a very light final coat.
He has told me the finish is hard and impervious to water, sweat, oil, humidity and just about anything and he has highly recommended it.
I can't wait to try it. Hope this helps.

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Permalink Reply by Will Carter on September 16, 2009 at 4:13am

I use laquor - in aerosol format, either matt or gloss is good. Sand with glass paper and repeat for a tough good looking neck. Or go full on and get into shellack - but this is really for the pros I think..... the aerosol finishes are easy to appy and really seal the deal nicely.. carful of bubbles and airborne particles tho, which is why to haveto sand between coates.

Mr Sheen or any aerosol linseed oil product will also work, but you can't beat the proper sealants any time.

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Permalink Reply by Starfish, darling on September 16, 2009 at 4:35am

I am very happy with the can of Danish oil that I got at the Home Depot. The one I got has a medium walnut stain and it makes the maple I used really pop. Once I sanded with 600 grit sandpaper and applied the oil, you'd think it was laquered.

And easy-peasy to do!

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Permalink Reply by Greg Miller on September 16, 2009 at 4:50am

I think I am going to stay away from laquor, I have had problems with my Gibson SG which has a laquor coat. The laquor reacts with some of the foam on my guitar stands and hangers. I am also staying away from those types of stands as well.

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Permalink Reply by BT Cohosh on September 16, 2009 at 7:12am

I've been using a water-based varnish, mostly because I had a lot leftover from a non-CBG project. It works well, though it does raise the grain more than an oil based finish. Not a big deal if you don't mind a little extra sanding. The big benefit of water-based finish is the ease of cleanup and lack of nasty vapors, I think, though I've also heard that a water-based varnish takes a harder final cure than oil, too.

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Permalink Reply by Jim138 on September 16, 2009 at 7:55am

I agree with Ted on this. Birchwood Casey Tru-oil is good stuff, but can be pricey. Premium USA made Music Man guitars come standard with Tru-oil finished necks and they feel great. You can find it online or at most gun shops. That being said I use Tung Oil because it is cheaper and has a very similar feel. I sanded and refinished the necks all of my poly finished store bought guitars with Tung Oil except for my Gibson LP and used it on my Cigar box guitar. If its good enough for Carvin guitars its good enough for me. It has a great smooth natural feel and it does not feel tacky as some of the poly type finishes do IHMO of course.

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Permalink Reply by Brendan deVallance on September 16, 2009 at 8:10am

Thanks for all the reply's, this is all great information.

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Permalink Reply by L.J. on September 16, 2009 at 9:52am

How many coats of tru oil or tung oil do you have to apply?and do you have to reapply over time? I use multiple coats of poly and would love to shorten my time,but do not wanna give up a good sealed smooth,lasting finish.

Ted Crocker said:

I use Tru-Oil, a gunstock finish. Tung oil is good too. I've used lacquer and poly but I prefer the Tru-Oil. Rub it on with a cloth and lightly rub with 0000 steel wool between coats.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on September 16, 2009 at 9:55am

Tung oil for me. Lots of light coats, little steel wool in between. Super easy to mend shop dings at the end, too. Swab a bit on and a lil scratch is gone.

My brand (Homer Formsby!) finishes glossier than the Danish oil from the hardware store. I just bought a new can of Behr tung oil, have not tried it yet. My danish oil is rich looking, but not shiny or glossy or even a sheen at all. Maybe I need to muscle up on the sanding in between.

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Permalink Reply by JUJU on September 16, 2009 at 10:00am

i use Danish oil on everything , easy to apply , dries quick and the most durable finish you can use if you happen to scratch it just apply some more with a wrag , simple but very effective , and it's a natural product - that reminds me i need to order more !
juju.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on September 16, 2009 at 10:26am

Tiny, do the polyshades go on nice and streakless? Do you rub them in or brush them on and leave it?

tinyguitars said:

Agreed with Ted and others, Tru Oil works wonders, but Minwax Polyshades does nicely and gives you choice of different shades and much cheaper that the Tru Oil. Btw, Birchwood Casey's Tru Oil is a tung oil based product. ;)

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Permalink Reply by Paul Doug on September 16, 2009 at 1:10pm

I'm a tung oil fan. I put it on with my fingers and rub it dry with my hand, repeat coats. Probably get cancer of the palms or something! I always remember the hours we spent putting linseed oil on our M-14 rifle stocks and "rubbing it in". Now I use tung oil instead on guitar necks.

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