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Hey Brett - I like E because it allows you to adjust the opening. That allows me to make finer cuts. Remember the blade has to be sharp! For that I use a Worksharp 3000 and water stones. Good luck.
Okay, all you neck-shapers: how thick do you leave your necks? I recently shaped my first with a spokeshave, and while it looks nice, it seems a bit... thin. I was carving it down from a homemade laminated 2x2; I followed the technique of rasping down at the first and 18th fret lengths to 1/2" and 5/8", respectively, and then shaving between the two grooves.
Perhaps I should start with a smaller block of wood next time?
I just added some shots of a neck being made, check it out on my page its in number 9 photo album. And how do I get a pic to show in this window?? I can cut wood but...
Okay, all you neck-shapers: how thick do you leave your necks? I recently shaped my first with a spokeshave, and while it looks nice, it seems a bit... thin. I was carving it down from a homemade laminated 2x2; I followed the technique of rasping down at the first and 18th fret lengths to 1/2" and 5/8", respectively, and then shaving between the two grooves.
Perhaps I should start with a smaller block of wood next time?
My .02$ (i should probably keep for myself).
I'm not an expert - I'm somewhere between my first and second/third CBG, but I use stringed instruments a lot.
IMHO a fully rounded back of the neck is not (always) necessary.
The facts: I use my thumb to press the lowest string in its lowest positions, but as I go towards the higher frequenties ("up the neck") my hand twists to "thumb support" position.
So I shaped the lower part ("tuners side") of the neck, leaving the upper part ("box side") square-ish. I smoothed the neck with a "sanding pad", which shaped the neck even more "after my hand". For a 6-stringer I'd probably reduce the overall thickness of the lower part of the neck as well.
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