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Adjustable Altoid Bridge

Thought I'd bring my progress from the picture thread to a discussion...

Heres the latest real world mockup....

And here was the original idea...

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on February 13, 2010 at 5:52pm

i like this one a lot...
real 50s fender / k&f vibe..
can you chop the lid down & pop that back on too??

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Permalink Reply by Joker on February 13, 2010 at 5:53pm

Cool idea. Have you tried it out on a box yet? I wondered if you might get some rattle from the bolts on the metal

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Permalink Reply by Michael Gajeski on February 13, 2010 at 9:08pm

Can an altoids tin stand the stress from the strings though? I've never played with them before

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Permalink Reply by rockcity on February 14, 2010 at 1:45am

Cool design let us know if the tin holds up to the string tension..

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on February 14, 2010 at 1:59am

I don't think the can will stand the stresses ........
I also think you're overkill on the bolts. I had this same idea a while back (without the can .... I was gonna use a piece of brass hinge) and toyed with it a bit.
You can reduce the size of the bolt. What you have is twice the size of whats on any of my basses. There is no real strain on the bolt.
Use a square nut. Bigger footprint, more stable, better energy transfer. And you can put the string groove in a location to make the string straighter.
Also, if ya want to put springs on the screws ... like the adjustable bridges have .... pilfer and pillage a few click pens.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Randy Webb on February 14, 2010 at 4:20am

Matt,

1. The string IS straight because I made the bolt long enough so that it can sit at a slight angle.

2. The bolt is that larger size for height of the nut, not strength.

3. It will have a small piece of angled steel behind it that the holes are also drilled through so there is no stress on the tin

4. Square nuts would work better, but couldn't find any laying around.

5. The wood version was much easier to make, and far more comfortable to play, and stronger without any support, so the tin is probably second place to it anyway.

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on February 14, 2010 at 9:34am

Ok on all.
IF I remember correctly, IF you can get the square nuts they will be bigger compared to the normal ones.
But what you have will work.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Randy Webb on February 14, 2010 at 9:42am

By the way, the list is not me being a smart alec, it's just the way my brain works. I need the structure or I ramble pointlesly....lol

Thanks for the suggestions.

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Permalink Reply by THENUGE on February 14, 2010 at 11:12am

where are the threads on these bolts? also, i don't see how this is adjustable, as it seems like the nut needs to lay flat on the top, and if you tightened or loosened it at all it would be resting on a corner...straighten me out

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Permalink Reply by Randy Webb on February 14, 2010 at 1:45pm

Hey nuge...
each bolt is threaded all the way down. Because of the string and grovve, when you turn the bolt to the right, the nut starts to slide backwrd pulled by the threads. It's no different than a Fender telecaster bridge and the way it works. The nut is the sadle.