ok, i know about the fret calculation website, and ive had a little look but im still confused.
on a "normal" guitar, the 12th fret is an octave of the open fret. so, when setting out my frets (well, the cbg will be fretless, but i need to mark on top of neck so i know where im going!) the 12th fret will need to be in the exact right place. so, that should be easy to find, just hitting the string until i get the octave. once i have established where that is, how am i supposed to space out the rest of the frets?
ive been thinking about this alot recently, and its bugging me!

my cbg is going to be rough and ready!
this is what ill be using.

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You will get a lot of answers to this one, but I use a program called Wfret, it is a free download. Just print out a template, tape it to the neck, and mark the fret locations.
thanks, but how can it know, because surely it is determined by where the string is fixed, each end?
i NEED lots of replies to this ha ha



Dan "Iggy" Sleep said:
You will get a lot of answers to this one, but I use a program called Wfret, it is a free download. Just print out a template, tape it to the neck, and mark the fret locations.
This should help explain it http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/fret.htm
Basically you have the scale length (nut to the bridge) and this is chopped into the fret positions needed to give you the notes. The 12th fret falls halfway between the bridge and the nut. The others are determined either by a calculator or using the maths given in the link.
I use a program with printed markers like Dan says. You're right, you need to measure the vibrating length (scale length), from nut to bridge saddle. But before attaching the bridge, check intonation. The theoretical measurements are usually not perfect, usually the bridge needs to be moved slightly back. Intonation point usually varies from string to string. When intonation is correct, the vibrating length is usually shorter for the treble strings. That is why you usually see bridge saddles at an angle, not parallel to the nut.

Another way that has worked for me (instead of using a fret calculator program) is to mark the fretboard notes using an electronic tuner. Just like you said about finding the 12th fret as the octave note (which corresponds to nominally 1/2 the scale length using a fret calculator). For slide, I just mark the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, and 12th fret positions.
YOU decide what scale you want.
- scale is the actual vibrating string length, from nut to bridge. Or just measure what you have.
YOU tell the fret calculator this length and then it tells you everything else.
Then YOU start measuring from the nut OR just put the template into place and make the marks.


Matt
great, thanks guys!
Oh yeah .... here's where it gets complicated. You also gotta tell it how many frets you want.


DfkaM
no problem just pick a big number like 30(?) and mark frets until you run out of fretboard, then forget it, you're done....




DIVA Formerly Known as Matt said:
Oh yeah .... here's where it gets complicated. You also gotta tell it how many frets you want.


DfkaM
That's a nice looking box - don't spoil it by being too rough and ready. You have got some good advice already. You have to decide on what scale you want ie what distance from nut to bridge. I made the following comment on another forum:
I first decide where I want to position the bridge on the box to take regard of both the pattern/picture/graphics on the lid and also to get a position approximately 1/3 of the distance from the end of the box. I believe this gives better resonance than positioning the bridge too close to the end of the box. I then decide what fret scale I want to use (generally the same as my Martin D-18 which is 25.340" or 643.636mm). This then determines the length of my neck - - measure from the position determined for the bridge to where the nut will be to establish neck length.

A Martin D-18 has 20 frets and you probably will not want any more than this


So you will have to experiment with moving the neck along the axis of the box until you get the scale length you want and the position of the bridge relative to the box. Don't put the bridge too close to the end of the box or you will deaden the natural resonance. I find the Stewmac fret calculator good as it also lets me use mm as well as ft & inches. If you are measuring from a rule don't measeure from fret to fret otherwise you will compound any slight errors, Always measure each fret position from the nut - the calculator gives you both distances - fret to fret and nut to fret. John D
Check out this video by nation member Crow. I've used it many times with very good results.

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/05-fret-calculation-and-fret

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