OK please look here http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/my-first-cbg-finished-5?context...
Now no matter what I do it seem my string are too high then when I use a smaller nut it like the strings just hover over it and sound like crap.... almost like the pegs are too high but hows that possible? Maybe they way Im stringing it???
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actually by your photo .. your first machine head is too close to add retainers ,, so your best and easiest bet is to
remove the machine heads and add a thin piece of wood or metal behind the headstock . or small washers between the machine head screws . then put em back on ..
to suck those poles in a bit more . this may require longer machine head screws though .
or swap out the mackine heads for shorter ones . you could try wraping the strings downward in a few wraps too . that may work
the anonymous pick said:
maybe the part of the wood that your machine heads goes through is too thin try putting a spacer in the back . or add a piece of wood . a tilted head would help too .. or a retaining bar/ pegs to pull the strings down after the nut .
You can glue a nice piece of wood to the back of the headstock to lower your machine tuners height. If this doesn't create enough of a break angle to get a decent tone, you may need to add a 1/4 inch fretboard to your neck and raise your bridge to match it. When I use this type of a headstock, I always add a 1/4 inch fretboard to help get enough height for the string tension or break angle over the nut so I can avoid this problem. I also like to use a 5 to 6 inch head stock so I have enough room for string trees or a retaining bar if I need one.
Another idea might be to glue a thicker piece of wood to the back of your headstock and then lower the face of your headstock down to give yourself an extra 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch drop down from the nut. I generally make a headstock 5/8" thick or a hair over 15 mm if you prefer metric. If you lower the face of the headstock and make it thick enough to lower the height of your machine tuners, you should be able to achieve the break angle you need to get a clear tone with a lower string height.
I hope all of this helps you figure out a way to fix your problem.
Brian Hunt.
What you've run into is the reason we use an angled headstock.
One thing you can do is to wrap the strings in a manner that will help.
Start the string at the holeand go down toward the neck. It's better to use a continuous layered method than just letting it scrambled around the post.
Also use as low a bridge as possible.
AFKAM
Justin,
I agree, you need more string break at the nut, and various posters have addressed that issue by suggesting adding a piece of wood to the back of the headstock. You could also try small eyelet screws as string trees; it looks like you might have enough room for those, even so close to your first machine head. Also, doing a proper string wrap downward on each machine head will help some.
One other aspect to this has not been noted by previous posters, and just a thought: how high are your strings at the bridge, and at the 12th fret? Lowering your bridge some might help. It might even be a combination of the first fix (adding wood to the back of the headstock), small eyelet screw string trees, and lowering the bridge a tad.
Anything but a complet neck rebuild!
Let us know how you get on,
Oily
All good suggestions so far. If you are looking to be able to press down on the strings and play notes, then you will have to lower the height of the nut by deepening the slot it lies in. You want the strings to sit roughly the thickness of a nickel above the fretboard. This is just a starting point. If you lower the height of the nut, you will make the problem with the tuners worse.
As already mentioned the height of the spot where the strings are anchored at the tuning peg needs to be well below the height of the spot where the strings rest on the nut. You can either laminate a piece of wood the the back side of the headstock as has been suggested, or you can add some type of hardware that will hold the strings down tight against the nut to keep them from buzzing. There is nothing wrong with the actual tuning peg, it is the way they are mounted in relationship to the nut that is causing problems.
Does that help?
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