Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Don Goguen on May 15, 2011 at 9:53am

The issue with the other versions other than the original titebond is the temperature at which the glue softens.  With instruments, there are times where they are exposed to high heat.  The original titebond will sustain a higher temperature before the glue softens to the point where the joint will creep.  So if in doubt, contact the manufacturer and ask for the specifications.

That said, just about any glue is going to be stronger than the wood.

Clamps, I use the large wood ones mainly but have some C clamps, spring clamps and bar clamps.  I pick them up used at yard sales and flea markets.  The collection keeps getting larger and I still have less than I need sometimes.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on May 15, 2011 at 11:00am

Titebond Original (red label) OR hide glue. I use 6" wood clamps from Harbor Freight. Love em.

 

-WY

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Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 15, 2011 at 1:47pm

Thanks everyone.

 

Good news, I JUST found TiteBond Original... its a brown label, not red, but definitely advertised as Original by one of our leading wood tool stores.

 

@Kevin. Thank you.  so, stupid question.... Very tight clamp is best for strength?  I thought the clamps were more just to keep the two wood pieces together while the glue dries, without warping?  This would not make a big difference between a tightly screwed tight clamp or a plastic spring clamp --- or do I have this wrong?

 

and the main applications i'm thinking about are attaching fretboard to neck, neck to box top, etc...

 

kindest,

 

My plan was to use the simple Quick Release Bar (F) Clamps.  Or the plastic with spring pinch clamps.  maybe not the route ???

 

thanks

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on May 15, 2011 at 2:11pm

James, They lied. Red label is what you want.Either you bought the dark Titebond II or the liquid hide glue.

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=Prod...

 

Here's the clamp I was talking about. very versitile

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-hardwood-handscrew-clamp-6986.html

 

Just a thought.

 

-WY

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Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 15, 2011 at 2:14pm

hi-- this is definitely Original titebond label.

heres the link.  lmk what you think--  they are highly respected.

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/GLUE-TITEBOND-ORIGINAL-1-QUART...

 

im not sure ???

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on May 15, 2011 at 2:27pm

Maybe different labels fer the northern brethren? But it does look like the labe reads right.

Clamps. Wow. Loaded question. I use c clamps, and a bunch of spool clamps I made. Simple and work good.

 

 

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on May 15, 2011 at 3:18pm

... or maybe _new_ labels!!! Hmmmm, well butter my buns and call me a gravy biscuit.

 

Damn, they sell it in a 5 Gallon bucket. Man, you gotta be one hellova builder to use 5 Gal! WOW!

 

-WY

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Permalink Reply by Mark Bliss on May 15, 2011 at 7:12pm

One can never have too many or too much variety of clamps. I buy a few nearly every time I go through that aisle...........

I have a collection of everything from micro sized up, and I have boxes of clothes pins, rubber bands, various model builders clamps, screw clamps, c-clamps,  on up to a collection of the Irwin pistol grip bar clamps in a variety of sizes.

For someone who strictly builds CBG's, a handfull of 4" and 6" bar clamps, some assorted spring clamps and a few of the above mentioned smaller solutions should do most anything you need. Having enough to combine with cauls or blocks to distribute the pressure evenly is far more important than shear power in my opinion. Most people feel that over clamping actually can squeeze out too much of the glue and weakens the joint.

Now its the collection of those big long cabinet builders clamps that really get expensive!

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