Has anybody converted a Tupelo/Mountain Tenor kit to Fretless?
If so, do you have any tip or advice.
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Hi Andrew, the first thing is to decide what you are going to replace the original frets with. Plastic, [white cable tyes work well], white maple or other timber, or some might suggest wood filler. Yuck!
Second, you may have to widen the old fret slots, so make sure you have a suitable saw. You will also have to lower the action by lowering the bridge saddle and the nut and its slots.
Taff
Not too keen on the wood filler method either!
Hi Andrew.
Apologies if I'm drifting off topic and not answering the question you asked, but here's my question; Before putting yourself through all the effort to remove frets and correct the slot issue, why not just space up the nut so you can easily play slide with no danger of hitting the frets? That would allow you to see how you like slide play on this guitar before taking action.
Just a thought.
Nice idea... may be the first step before trying any other ideas
Yes Taff, wood filler would be a Yuck situation!! Cable ties are the easiest, but if you decide to use wood, make sure it’s equally dense as the fretboard material?
agreed!
Hi, Yes BrianQ is dead right. Frets add stability to the neck, resistance to bowing upwards.
I forgot to mention this, but, when pulling frets the barbs on the tang of the fret can leave the fingerboard, along the slot, in a mess as they can pull wood fibres out with them. When refretting that mess is covered up again by new frets, unless real bad. But that's another story.
Taff
I did think of this solution, will check out the suggested site.
Why not just set aside the neck with fret board? You can then use it later, on another build. Then get another board and fret board, non fretted, and build what you want. The kit your talking about, will let you do that. Then you can make it for whatever length you wanted. The kit is for a 23 inch scale length. But by using other wood, you can make it longer.
Note: the strings with kit is for 23 inch scale, so you can't use them for a longer or shorter scale, unless using a different tuning.
For those who haven't built one of these kits. The board that goes inside the neck is lower, then the main neck is glued on top of it's protrusion out side of the box.
This was also an option that I have considered. Seems like less mess! This would also give morel flexibility to add my own markers.
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