This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?
I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.
A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.
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More table saw stuff. Make sure the blade is just a bit higher than the piece your cutting. Also, even with a sharp blade, I find if I’m cutting small strips it wants to kick back at the end. To avoid this, I have the piece longer than needed. Then stop cutting near the end, cut it square sideways, then go again. Works great, clean sliced.
Yes ! MadGomer! Cutting a fingerboard for a 6 string from a large hunk of ebony, the piece flew. I had even planned to put some insulation against the wall to "catch" the pieces. Now I use the above method. Stop near the end. Shut off the saw. Cut your piece of sideways.
Rat, check the "crush washer", the domed washer that goes on the arbor after the blade. Like i mentioned before, it may have been overnighted at the factory. Also lay the blade on the table to make sure it's flat. You could always try one or two of these, from Rockler, etc. Sorry there was no link to copy.......Something is amiss, not a good thing for a blade to rock. (or try a different blade first, perhaps that one is faulty, too large a hole for the arbor, etc....) these stabilizers are used usualy for thin kerf blades. i only use one, on the right side, touching the blade. But in your case you may want two.
Hi, I overcome the kickback issue by pushing the piece though the saw using a scrap of timber that lays flat on the table behind the piece being cut so that it is in contact with trailing edge and up against the fence so strip does not spit back. I push both pieces together.
I also clamp a scrap of timber against the fence just above the strip so that the sawblade does not drag the slice up at me.
I hope that makes sense. Taff
This is a good thing to do.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help. I have my heart set on that Dewalt. So the only tool work for this old thing is to take it apart. I'll keep the motor and the stand. And the yellow push thing that came with it. The only part that actually worked right. : )
Blade is always less than 1/4 inch above the wood. If I'm cutting and can't secure both pieces of wood i turn the saw off wile cutting. Take the last half inch or so off with a slower blade.
Lifetime warranty on hand tools. Three years on power.
the biggest issues I've had is the fence moving and the sloppy fit of the miter gage. I just happened to notice the 1/16 rocking out of square wile moving the blade up and down. But that would explain some problems from the past.
Gotcha. Dewalt makes good stuff.
My only experience with Dewalt is a battery drill, both batteries decided to die within weeks of each other,charged up an old Black and Decker which the Dewalt replaced and it's worked perfectly.
Another great disappointment has been my Proxxon Micro Router which died just out of warranty,it was repaired free of charge but a few years on the same fault has recurred.
Neither of these tools have had a hard life,especially the router,makes me wonder if paying the extra for a "quality brand "is worth it
Try Hitachi, I have a 90° drill and a trim router. Both belonged to my brother in his furniture factory and have seen 'a lot' of use. 20 some years later still going strong.
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