On my other builds I've made the heel to fit inside the box mainly because of lack of decent wood left from the neck build and I'd use a small piece glued to the neck to make it look like a through heel , as my on going build will be a mag pup I want to put the heel all the way through to add a bit more strength , so what I'd like to know is that is the trick to be able to open and close the box with out the heel catching on the box ? , or will my normal method be strong enough the pup will sit 2ins from the front of the box . thanks for reading .
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hey kid,in my opinion,the heel,relevance to the strength of the neck with a cutout for a pup is 2/5 of nothing,if you,re happy with your present arrangement,keep it,but bolster the bottom of your neck by laminating a similar section of wood below ,from the start of the box,or even 11/2 inches b4 the box which i would call the heel,your reference to heel i think is what i,d call the tail.a well made glued lamination will do the job,if unsure,bang a few screws in.as for opening and closing with a thru neck,an almost invisible radius of the edge furtherest from the hinges should allow the opening and closing of the box without an obvious gap,i think reeds taylor has an image of the neck reinforcement that i,m trying to convey,good luck
In the UK we call it the heel , the tail I call the bit that comes out the end of the box with the string holes , the neck portion inside the box is double thickness , it stops at the edge of the box to allow easy opening then I glue a shaped piece to the neck up against the box to make it look like it's all the way through , so is making it all one piece going to be that much stronger than doing it in two pieces .
sorry mate,misinterpreted your original post,yep that,s what i call the heel also,sorry for the confusion,simply stated,to open and close the box with the thru box heel and neck,the same applies as my original reply,just a small amount of relief on the edge furthest from the hinges is all you,ll need,radius the corners of the bottom of your neck cut out a little to match the neck bottom edges,and you,ll find that there is a minimal visible gap,hope this helps
Way I do it also when I use a pup
I'll butt in. I (almost) always have a CBG that opens and closes. Sometimes with a degree of trouble, destringing, and removing various bits and pieces. Why have access? Things break and fail. More than once I've had to resolder connections. Or, I want to reconfigure electronics on a particlar build. The only reason I can think of to seal a box is on a totally acoustic CBG. The easiest way to have access to the interior of the box is to "build on the bottom." It usually the best wood and a blank slate for graphics/folkart.
I also always make the box openable...it's simply a practical way of making sure everything can be repaired, adjusted and altered. Solder joints can fail, jack sockets and pots wear out...easy access saves so much grief.
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