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Freehand it. It ain't a Martin. What's a little teeny bit out of square between frets? Bet you can't even hear it even if you can sort of see it. Sing along and your guitar won't seem out of key!!!!!
I ended up using a thin craft saw from a hobby shop, and just buy the same sized frets every time (Fender if I recall correctly). My 'depth gauge' is a line drawn on the blade with a Sharpie and a few raised dots of epoxy. The frets tap in just fine and stay even though my technique leaves much to be desired...
If you don't want to saw fret slots-at least one poster(whose name I don't currently recall)wraps copper wire around the fretboard and secures the result on the neck...at least one other poster drills tiny matching holes in the sides of the fretboards and secures the wire by bending and tucking...one designer drills tiny holes 1mm from both edges of the fretboard face and secures extra-long copper staples with a tack hammer, while one slices bobby pins and secures with superglue. I'd Link some examples but my Link-fu seems weak today, alas. I know I didn't just imagine them...
Bad Finger is right about the freehanding of the frets-you won't notice unless the deviation is truly horrendous. If you are using a flat fretboard with no radius though, you have the option of using a tiny Square to pencil your guide line in. With my tinfoil saw setup I normally cut from one side, angle to the other side and then flatcut the middle, staying on the pencil marks-so far, so good!
I recently bought a Japanese backsaw at Harbor Freight for less than $8.00. The width is perfect for the medium fret wire I bought at Gitty's. I drilled two holes through the blade and bolted on a scrap piece of laminate with elongated holes to allow for height adjustment. It worked really well and gave me the uniform depth that I wanted. Adding the piece of wood stiffened the blade nicely and allowed me to cut my slots freehand. I had first drawn lines on with pencil. I added painters tape to the edge to keep the laminate from marring the wood as I reached my desired depth and that worked out fine too.
Now I have to refine my technique in hammering in the frets, but overall I am happy with the results on my second fretboard.
Dan is correct in the fact that a coping saw blade depth is the depth to cut but what was not mentioned was the width of the tang. I used the coping saw myself with decent results but I found that I had to glue my frets in and not always a clean result. In my search for an inexpensive fix to my problem I bought a Japanese hand saw the blade is very thin. I use a T-square to keep the cut straight and do three pulls which I find is the exact depth of the teeth on that saw. I then have to press the fret in tap it with a wood block and hammer. They stay in place with no glue. Paid 13 dollars for the saw at Lowes.
Tom Thompson I see has a similar saw. But yep the tooth depth on my saw is the depth I cut but more important is that I no longer have to glue my frets in. you can see the saw and t square that I use in this pic as I just got done cutting the slots on this build. reinforcing the blade is probably a good idea as it is very thin but I line it up with the t square and do three full pulls and it has worked good so far. I put the blade cover on the top of the blade for a bit more rigidity.
I use the 10. Japanese saw from Harbor Freight. It is the perfect width .024" and super sharp. If I cut just to the depth of the teeth (I shine a bright light from one side and when the light stops showing through the teeth , stop) and the slot is just the right depth for the fret tang.
Made a small mitre box too just the size to hold fret board.
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