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You need to solder the black wire from the piezo to the ground on the jack. Actually I don't think it really matters if you wire it backwards or not, but I always to red to positive and black to ground anyway.
If you look at the jack, you will be able to see which prong leads the the arm that the tip of the jack that the tip of the plug will press against. The black wire will be connected to the prong that leads to the sleeve that the shaft of the plug will touch. The other prong on the jack will not be used.
Does that make sense?
You need to solder the black wire from the piezo to the ground on the jack. Actually I don't think it really matters if you wire it backwards or not, but I always to red to positive and black to ground anyway.
If you look at the jack, you will be able to see which prong leads the the arm that the tip of the jack that the tip of the plug will press against. The black wire will be connected to the prong that leads to the sleeve that the shaft of the plug will touch. The other prong on the jack will not be used.
Does that make sense?
Gotcha, I may have some of those long jacks somewhere. I can't remember which of the prongs to use, but I do remember that one of them is shorter than the other.
From the Stewart Macdonald web site:
"The short terminal is positive, the mid-length terminal is the "ring" (for stereo output, or for battery switching in mono wiring), and the long arm on the side is ground."
So, red to the short one, and black to the long arm.
The pictures too small for me to be able to see, but I would plug in an instrument cord and see where the tip connection hits. If you cant see it, use an ohmmeter or continuity tester on the other end of the cord to the plug terminals to determine which is connected, OR plug the other end of the cord into an amp and experiment with temporary connections until it works.
As far as I am concerned, continuity is irrelevent with a piezo, swap the black and red all you want. Tell people switching it gives it extra mojo or something.
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