About 5 guitars in and some higher-than-usual action on my builds, I'm trying to wrap my head completely around the idea of angled necks/heels. As near as I can tell, the idea of angling a neck pocket, or using a shim, seems to really come into play if you want to use a bridge that sits higher off the soundboard than the fretboard + frets (for example, a banjo). Then, while I looking at some of my cheap Strat/Tele copies, I realized none of them utilize an angled neck pocket. I had one of those DUH moments : if it's possible to design the neck/fretboard so that it sits far enough above the soundboard to match the height of the bridge, why do luthiers bother with angled necks? Am I completely missing some design flaw that an angled neck fixes, beyond matching for high bridges?
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the two edges you are joining up ought to be square if your neck blank is..
the bandsawn edges become the top and bottom edges, i think you may be doing it a different way from me ?
Jon Pruett said:
I am building my first one with a body scarf joint similar to this and found that I had to sand the angled cut to get a nice smooth glue joint. I suppose anyone able to get a really smooth and straight cut the first time through might be able to skip this step, but if the two surfaces that are going to be glued together don't mate up smoothly the glue joint won't hold as well.
Jef Long said:
haha mine arent so nice on the inside, they have a little sticker that says 'what the fuck are you doing looking in here?'
:D
MichaelS said:What do you need to sand it for Jef, the part you cut is hidden in the box, unless the inside of your guitar is as nice as the outside, mine aren't.
Square? Isn't that one of those theoretical shapes that only occurs on paper? :)
I forgot to mention that I'm working with a 3-piece laminated neck and forgot to run it through the planer before I made the angled cut. Turned out that only one side was square - the other side was... not. Made for lots of extra planing and sanding clean up work. I should probably write that one up in the "Hall of Shame" group.... - must make both sides of the neck square before cutting a scarf joint.
Jef Long said:
the two edges you are joining up ought to be square if your neck blank is..
the bandsawn edges become the top and bottom edges, i think you may be doing it a different way from me ?
Jon Pruett said:I am building my first one with a body scarf joint similar to this and found that I had to sand the angled cut to get a nice smooth glue joint. I suppose anyone able to get a really smooth and straight cut the first time through might be able to skip this step, but if the two surfaces that are going to be glued together don't mate up smoothly the glue joint won't hold as well.
Jef Long said:
haha mine arent so nice on the inside, they have a little sticker that says 'what the fuck are you doing looking in here?'
:D
MichaelS said:What do you need to sand it for Jef, the part you cut is hidden in the box, unless the inside of your guitar is as nice as the outside, mine aren't.
I hate to say it, but I'm still lost without a technique on making angled necks.
I'd like to find a way to do them for box-through designs, similar to the good people at Daddy Mojo, but I guess I'm not mechanically inclined enough to figure out how they do it. Michael S described a technique early into this thread for a box-through method, but I couldn't visualize it. If anyone has a technique they'd like to share, please bring it to the thread...
Now sh*t, This is a great idea. I do something like this but haven't done the scarf. Super!
-WY
Jef Long said:
<picture removed>
I hate to say it, but I'm still lost without a technique on making angled necks.
I'd like to find a way to do them for box-through designs, similar to the good people at Daddy Mojo, but I guess I'm not mechanically inclined enough to figure out how they do it. Michael S described a technique early into this thread for a box-through method, but I couldn't visualize it. If anyone has a technique they'd like to share, please bring it to the thread...
Dude
Can't be simpler. Want a better image or the SketchUp file, I can have that for you.
-WY
Scotty C. said:
I hate to say it, but I'm still lost without a technique on making angled necks.
I'd like to find a way to do them for box-through designs, similar to the good people at Daddy Mojo, but I guess I'm not mechanically inclined enough to figure out how they do it. Michael S described a technique early into this thread for a box-through method, but I couldn't visualize it. If anyone has a technique they'd like to share, please bring it to the thread...
Better yet, visit my blog on this
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/profiles/blogs/cbg-plans
-WY
Scotty C. said:
I hate to say it, but I'm still lost without a technique on making angled necks.
I'd like to find a way to do them for box-through designs, similar to the good people at Daddy Mojo, but I guess I'm not mechanically inclined enough to figure out how they do it. Michael S described a technique early into this thread for a box-through method, but I couldn't visualize it. If anyone has a technique they'd like to share, please bring it to the thread...
Wes, your plans have helped me out more often than you know, but these days I want to start using taller bridges than i have previously -- like, around 0.65" tall. Doing a through-box with no neck angle is going to result in too-high string height, especially as you move down the fretboard. Ya know?
I very much appreciate the advice, though.
Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:
Scotty,
For an idea on angling the neck a bit, as well as a scarf joint free angled headstock, study this neck I built.
The design could easily be modified for a hard fingerboard laminated to the top as I plan in one of my next builds, but I wanted to present a simple method for those with limited tools and experience.
In the 7th picture you can see where I am cutting the back side of the neck in the box relief area at a slight angle, the front matches to create a 2 degree neg neck set angle.
With the finger board surface about 1/4" above the box where it meets the box, this one will require about a .6" tall bridge. Plenty of flexibility in the design for changing it to suit your needs.
Good luck on your efforts!
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