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Hang on ... are you even cutting a slot?
Im having trouble understanding why the thickness of wood matters?
If you cut the proper width slot for the frets, it shouldn't matter if the would is 6mm or 100mm thick the fret should go in. Does your saw width match the proper width for the fret ?
6 mm is about 1/4" which is pretty standard for guitars. Cedar seems like it would be a little soft. Hard wood is normally used for fretboards.
The real trick is getting the fret slots to the right width. Too narrow, and you'll have trouble getting them in. Too wide and they'll be loose, requiring you to glue them in. However, some people do this on purpose as a technique.
As far as hammering, I start at an edge, not in the middle. The hammering should actually be more like tapping, if the fret slots are right.
If you have a curved fret board, the frets should also be curved.
I have tried several saw widths. The one that is rec. by the nation is the one that I am having trouble with as far as hammering (tapping) due to the thickness of the board. If I use a thick piece of wood, no problem. If I use the 6mm, problem.
Randy Webb said:Im having trouble understanding why the thickness of wood matters?
If you cut the proper width slot for the frets, it shouldn't matter if the would is 6mm or 100mm thick the fret should go in. Does your saw width match the proper width for the fret ?
The slot is the same size no matter what thickness the wood is if your using the same saw? Right?
Douglas Eric Marsalis said:I have tried several saw widths. The one that is rec. by the nation is the one that I am having trouble with as far as hammering (tapping) due to the thickness of the board. If I use a thick piece of wood, no problem. If I use the 6mm, problem.
Randy Webb said:Im having trouble understanding why the thickness of wood matters?
If you cut the proper width slot for the frets, it shouldn't matter if the would is 6mm or 100mm thick the fret should go in. Does your saw width match the proper width for the fret ?
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