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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on December 29, 2014 at 12:30am

Slowpaw, ya, this bass would have definitely sounded better on that Christmas song than using a POG2. A lot crisper, punchier and not as hard on my single 12 Marshall.

Diglydog, went ahead and got me a pair of em off of Ebay. The post here is a bit cheaper. $2.95 Brings the total cost of this bass to $254.63.

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Permalink Reply by Diglydog on December 29, 2014 at 5:51am

That's a result.  You have a decent bass as a foundation, with a lot of upgrades and plenty of your own design input for ~£250.  Nice work !

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on January 2, 2015 at 12:29pm

Still tinkering with the neck. Do some adjusting on the truss rod and let it rest. Do a little more and let it rest. Then lower the bridge hight. Then back to the truss rod. Using a straight edge I still have about 1/32 of a bow. It was closer to 1/4 of an inch bowed when I started. The difference in playability is night and day right now. There's a real sense of accomplishment. Taking something unplayable and turning it back into a musical instrument.

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on January 3, 2015 at 5:09am

Well got my new replacement knobs to replace the new knobs that didn't fit. These don't fit either...: ) However these are solid so I'll drill em out to fit.

Did another adjustment to the truss rod yesterday. Finally went a tad to far! I'll give it a turn to the loosen side. Really happy with the way this bass is playing. For the amount of work done this would have cost a small fortune to have a pro do it.

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on January 17, 2015 at 9:11pm

An update on the bass I fixed. OK still don't have the knobs drilled out. Who needs knobs to play. : ) When to a music store Sat to pick up a few things. Played on a $1700 G&L bass. It was nice. My $45 auction special plays better! I can not be happier.
The big difference between the two setups was the hight of the nut cuts on the G&L. The strings were higher off the neck at the first fret. Giving a flat neck to string parallel all the way to the body. Where my Fender is slightly higher at the body. The E string hight on my Fender sits a tad over 1 mm at the fist fret. Just a hair over 2 mm at the 20th fret. Even at that small of a difference it's easy to feel when you play up the neck. Technically we're talking twice the string hight at the body of the Fender. I guess I'll live with that. : ) We're only talking a possible difference of a half a mm between the two basses. I'm happy that the Fender is 1/2 mm lower where the strings are at their highest tension.

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Permalink Reply by Scott aka Farmer Ted on January 18, 2015 at 1:23am

Very cool, and you saved $1600+ doing it your way with a fantastic auction find...cheers to that. As for the string height/action of the G&L compared to yours, it's my understanding that yours...with the increasing height as you go down the neck...is how it should be. Not sure why the G&L would have strings parallel to the neck all the way down. May be that it comes from factory that way, with the expectation that the new owner will have it set up to his/her specs. Each player will have their own likes when it comes to action. This is especially true with basses, since the strings are thicker and the vibrating waves of the strings are more pronounced. With a poor set up, those fat bass strings would be sure to buzz on the frets...EEEEEK!

Anyways, happy you scored a great deal on a bass.

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on January 18, 2015 at 7:33am

Right on the money on the string hight Scott. It's the same with a guitar. Most of my electric guitars low E ( 42 ) is about (-) 1/2 mm above the first fret. Just a hair over 1 mm at the body side. Again about twice the hight. Being a guitar player I'm used to the hight difference. On the bass it's almost twice the difference in hight at the body than what I'm used to. It's that billionth of a second difference from when I feel the string to when I feel it make contact with the fret. If I played the bass all the time I'd be just as used to the hight difference as I am wile playing the guitar. The way the G&L was set it has an even feel all the way up. I think in order to do that the nut and bridge hight would have to be exactly the same. Then the fretboard would have to be dead flat. No relief like you have on a guitar. Honestly anyone could do this modification to their bass. You'd probably go thew a few nuts before getting it right.

I have about a 64th of an inch relief from the first fret to the 20th on the Fender. If I go flatter I get fret buzz.

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