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Hi,
Are you making necks with or without frets? Last time I spent ages sorting out a guitar with a buzz I changed the nut and then realised the buzz was from the second fret being a bit too high.
My last reso build had a buzz because I didn't give it enough angle over the biscuit bridge - a higher bridge and increasing the angle of the neck with a shim sorted it out.
Another guitar with a buzz turned out to have a loose screw holding the bridge in place hidden by a plastic disc - I only realised as I was about to take the bridge off.
It might help if you have a picture of the CBG
Regards,
David
what are you using to slot your nut. if the nut slot is too wide it will allow the string to vibrate in the slot itself and cause a buzz. a good set of nut files are expensive but will help greatly in this area.
Hi,
I am unable to find the link to a previous posting regarding fret files but the item suggested as a cheap alternative these
WELDING / CUTTING GAS TORCH TIP / NOZZLE CLEANERS
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WELDING-CUTTING-GAS-TORCH-TIP-NOZZLE-CLEANERS...
I recently bought a set and I am impressed at how well they cut slots in plastic nuts and saddles (not sure how they would cope with bone)
Tim said:what are you using to slot your nut. if the nut slot is too wide it will allow the string to vibrate in the slot itself and cause a buzz. a good set of nut files are expensive but will help greatly in this area.
what are you using to slot your nut. if the nut slot is too wide it will allow the string to vibrate in the slot itself and cause a buzz. a good set of nut files are expensive but will help greatly in this area.
This is it,, string slot size, must match string size.
Tim said:what are you using to slot your nut. if the nut slot is too wide it will allow the string to vibrate in the slot itself and cause a buzz. a good set of nut files are expensive but will help greatly in this area.
Use a zero fret instead of a regular nut, that way you could use a lower nut with shallower notches that are just for string guidence instead of filing a deep and narrow enough slot for the string's to rest in and be intonated correct. snip Hope this helps, good luck on your build!
Use a zero fret instead of a regular nut, that way you could use a lower nut with shallower notches that are just for string guidence instead of filing a deep and narrow enough slot for the string's to rest in and be intonated correct.
Zero fret's are a little bit higher than regular fret's so you wont have any intonation problems at the nut as long as your fretboard and fret's are leveld. The notches in the nut can be as deep or as shallow if you want as long as they keep the string in place.
If it still rattles then it will be:
1 A hell of a lot less loud because the stringpart that is buzzing at the nut isnt directley connected to the soundboard on the other end of the nut (Tuner-nut-zero fret-soundboard vs Tuner-nut-soundboard)
2 A lot easier to fix since it doesnt effect the intonation or action of the string's themselves, the zero fret acts as a perfect nut on those aspects and you can file the slots as deep as you want (at a slight angle). If the slot is to low the strings will toutch nothing but wood from the fretboard, that will dampen that part of the string instead of buzz. Problem fixed.
If you incist on having a regular nut your in for a whole lot of delicate work.
You take the nut and file very shallow notches in the places you want according to your string spacing. So shallow the string's bearley hold into place and the action is waaaaaaaay to high.
Than you angle the slot downwards at the headstock side so it leaves an allmost sharpe edge at the fingerboard end of the slot.
Put the string in and tune it a little (not to pitch but two or three steps lower), push down on the second fret and hit the note, than while still pushing down at 2nd you push down on the first fret. If the pitch of the note at 2nd goes up the nut is to high and you need to file deeper untill pushing down on the 1st fret doesnt effect the pitch of the note on the 2nd fret. Then tune the string to pitch and check again if 1st doesnt effect 2nd (should be good) correct any pitch problems like you did before and your good to go.
But do remember to keep the correct angle when filing the slot deeper and that its better to file 5-10 times to get to the correct hight than it is to file twice and go to deep.
This way in the hands of a professional Luthier can be done in about 30-45 minutes for a 6 string, maybe a little bit faster if the Luthier is realy good at that particular subject but us amateur's can take up to about 4 times that much time (if we succeed at all, i suggest practising on scrapwood a couple of times) so in my opinion the zero fret is easier to work with.
Hope this helps, good luck on your build!
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