Comment

Comment by PapaSimone on September 24, 2011 at 2:34am

Flat board and flat wire. I'm doing something wrong.

Comment by rodney fruits on September 23, 2011 at 8:00pm

Is your fret board flat and your wire curved? if so, straighten the wire out before you press or hammer it in....... Its not a myth!  

Comment by PapaSimone on September 23, 2011 at 1:43pm

I have read of those who do not have to glue.  Is this just a myth?

 

Comment by Wiley Rutledge on September 23, 2011 at 1:29pm

You may be sawing too shallowly. try a couple more strokes for an already cut fret and see if that makes a difference.  You are gluing them in aren't you?

Comment by PapaSimone on September 23, 2011 at 1:03pm

I'm having fret board problems.  The frets keep popping off.  what am I doing wrong?  I'm using a Stewart Mcdonald saw and cb gitty fret wire.  Can't bring it all together!  Frustration!

Comment by Servaas (Der Groovemeister) on September 10, 2011 at 12:20am

Try to shield the amp with aluminum foil at the inside of the box. You have to ground the foil.

Comment by Michael Prout on September 9, 2011 at 2:31pm

My amp is picking up radio!

Comment by Habanera Hal on September 7, 2011 at 7:38am

Dan, how do the different resistance values affect piezos?

Comment by Michael Prout on September 6, 2011 at 12:42pm

Thanks a lot Dan.  Very helpfull,

Comment by Dan Sleep on September 6, 2011 at 12:36pm

From the Web:

 

general "rule-of-thumbs":

1Meg = very bright sounding
500K = bright sounding
250K = warm, vintage sounding

1Meg = bright HB...shrill SC
500K = warm HB...bright SC
250K = muddy HB, warm SC

HB = humbucker
SC = single coil

...the HIGHER the pot resistance value, the LESS high-frequencies are attenuated.
...the LOWER the pot resistance value, the MORE high-frequencies are attenduated.

TONE control pot value doesn't matter too much because the overall "taper" or "rolloff" can be 'adjusted' by simply changing the cap value.

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