Comment

Comment by Josh Ferrin on May 13, 2014 at 8:17am

Here's my first cbg/uke.  I'm a designer by trade and have a hobby of painting instruments so I had to do a design on the front.  It's for my sister (born in 1976) who is a wild mountain biker and has broken bones on several occasions - thus the 'Bone Shaker.'  Bike chain saddle.  I'm going to add a sound hole on the left side (facing up when playing) that is drilled through a bike sprocket.  Logo on the headstock and heel are a play on Specialized bike's logo.  Lightning f-holes done with an x-acto blade.  Stained, painted and sealed (tung) Illusione cigar box.  I love it!  It sounds plunky, but it works!

Comment by gary sheldon on May 6, 2014 at 7:27pm

Here is my 3rd uke.  It has a Piezo pick up.  I made it with a neck joint that isn't glued.  I like to be able to remove the neck for changes, etc.  The fret markers are a   reflective mylar material with an adhesive backing.  They are made from the mylar sheets with a paper punch.  Then just pressed on to the fretboard.  No drilling.  So far they have stayed in place.  I may change the box later.

Gary  

Comment by Richey Kay on April 7, 2014 at 7:51am

Nope. The strings need a ferrous core. Use a piezo?

Comment by gary herget on April 7, 2014 at 7:46am

Can anyone tell me will nylon strings work with a magnetic pick-up?

Thanks, Gary

Comment by John Nagy on March 4, 2014 at 7:20am

Sweet looking. 

Comment by Clifford Eise on February 20, 2014 at 3:40am

Good plan. Right about one thing: it gets a little scary about cutting the tin, but none of it sticks out after finish.

Comment by Titch the Clown on February 20, 2014 at 1:32am

I find with tins the sound is quite muted unless you cut a relief around where the bridge is. I tend to cut a bigger one

I then add reinforcement to the tin - at one end I bend the tin over to make room for the neck at the other end I leave it unharmed. Everything gets glued with epoxy and held in place with a screw. At no stage is the tin cut = no sharp edges - important when making ukes for kids and slightly inebriated adults. Note a small notch to accommodate the lip of the tin at the end of the neck stick.

Now the lid goes on (the fret board hangs slightly over this one) and a fancy hinge will be screwed to the intact end of the tin.

Headstock shaping, piezo pickup and frets to be added before I glue and screw it all together.

Comment by PhilUSAFRet on February 19, 2014 at 2:10am

Re: dulcimers, it's the total area of the soundboard available to resonate that matters.  Sure, it would sound better without that fretboard glued down the middle of it, but on either side, there's still a substantial amount of tonewood to get the job done quite nicely.

Comment by Will T on February 18, 2014 at 4:22pm

Hey Scott - Thanks for the reply, and for your kind words on the Uke. Much appreciated! - Will 

Comment by Scott W on February 18, 2014 at 2:59pm

Will, most of the fretboards on my dulcimers have also been hallow with a groove plowed out and through the soundboard. Others I have made just have a solid fretboard right on the soundboard and they sound good. I guess I should have stated in my prior post that just because you could put the neck directly on the soundboard doesn't mean you should. It would work, but may not be the best choice.
BTW, I love the look of that uke!

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