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Building a basic bridge?

I am trying to finish up a rebuild on this CBG I bought that had too many issues and was wondering if anyone has a schematic or dimensions for a basic bridge I could build that would work on this Brick House Box I am using? I purchased a pair of the C.B. Gitty laser cut bridges (flying K style 4 Padauk but they are too long for this box. I need something shorter than a 4" bridge. I think a 2.25" bridge would work fine since it is only for a 3 string unit anyway. Not really sure if the flying K style 4 is needed or if a plain K style 3 would work just as fine. My only problem would be how to cut the angle at the top so the strings sit on a sharp peak. Fishing for some ideas, Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks,

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on October 15, 2018 at 12:45pm

Try this one, very easy: https://youtu.be/e24UHnh9DYg

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 15, 2018 at 12:59pm

Thank you BrianQ. You are awesome. I love those Dell Puckett videos, he always has something simple but good. Thanks a million.

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Permalink Reply by FoldedSoup on October 16, 2018 at 7:19am

I love coming to this site and having light bulbs go off because of someone else's great idea. I've made a few zero-fret gits, but I never considered using fretwire as the saddle.

Question to others … any major acoustic difference between a fret wire saddle and a bone one? Or, anything else that may cause an unforeseen problem (wiring?) If it's not too different, I may have found a new bridge technique... thanks Dell and CBN!

Cheers!

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on October 15, 2018 at 2:15pm

You’re welcome, we’re all here to help each other get ‘er done. Cheers

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 15, 2018 at 8:20pm

Hi, I have posted a thread on building a basic bridge. All photos. It was called " Building a bridge, the way I do it" . I don't know how you would find it now though, I think it was back in June 2018.

Taff

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 16, 2018 at 1:11am

Thanks Taff. Is that the post with photos of the ukulele bridge? I did find that one and that bridge looks very nice and sturdy.

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Permalink Reply by Webster Miller on October 16, 2018 at 3:00am

You really just need it wide enough to accommodate the overall string width and the correct height for your desired action. I initially make mine all a bit high and then will adjust them during setup (sand bottom and/or file deeper string slots). One of the more fun parts of building a CBG is looking around the house/workshop/yard for something different to make the bridge out of.

I particularly like this one I made from one of my Dog's chew bones:

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 16, 2018 at 9:52am

Now that is funny but it looks good. How did you make the tailpiece or is it just a basic hinge of some sort?

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Permalink Reply by Webster Miller on October 16, 2018 at 10:08am

The tailpiece is just a piece of this style of cabinet hinge.

Both pieces can be used for a complete (tailpiece/bridge) solution:

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 16, 2018 at 10:14am

That is perfect. You never cease to amaze me. You work looks excellent and I have to give you high marks for how all of it looks. Also, thank you for the nice photos. I will have to look into some of these. Very nice that they can be used for either tailpiece or bridge.

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 16, 2018 at 10:47am

Hi Folded soup, re difference in saddle materials: Normally the harder the saddle, or nut for that matter, the brighter and more sustaining the string response.

So, if I was putting a bridge on a tin top CBG with a piezo pickup, I might choose a bridge with a wood saddle, so as to cut down/limit/tame the brashness or high frequencies from this build combination.

And to change the sound/response in the opposite direction on a wood top box, I would try a fretwire/bone/brass nut or saddle.

Taff