I am beginning to build my very first Cigar Box guitar. I have almost all of the materials gathered but I have a few questions before I start building. I know the world of CBG making seems to be anthing goes as long as the end result is a playable decent sounding guitar, but I was hoping someone can help me out with some answers. First, I am going to be making a fretless neck. I am planing on allowing 19.5 inches for the playing portion of the neck, I was wondering if this is sufficient. I will be marking the frets with a woodburning tool. Although I do enjoy playing acoustic guitars I come from an electric guitar background and all but 2 of my 6 guitars have 24 frets. I was planing on using the frets of my number one guitar as a guide for the scale and also to mark the frets on my CBG. Which leads me to my 2nd question. Is making a "24 fret" CBG is a bad idea? I know they will just be markers and not working frets but I am planing on building a playable instrument haha. The 3rd question is that i have a paper covered Punch Box measuring 9 3/4" x 7 3/4" x 2" I would like to do 2 f-holes on either side of the punch logo. I noticed that most CBG have at least 2 round holes drilled into them. I was wondering if this is because it is easier to do or because it actually does a better job projecting the sound than the f-holes. Thank you for reading I look forward to any advice.

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You need to know the scale first. Nut to bridge. Decide where you want to put the bridge. Usually bottom third of box. Pencil mark on top of box where your bridge will be. Lay your neck board on top of box. Leave over hang on end of box for strings.Mark board where you want bridge. Mark board at each end of box. That will be your reference. Measure from
bridge to nut and mark nut placement . This will be your scale measurement. (25.5,25, 24.5 whatever). Leave 6 inches of board on top so you will have room for tuner headstock. Usually I don't worry about number of frets its usually about scale lenght. F holes are cool but you want to make them smallish because your taking away material on top of vibrating board.CB's soundboard area is scaled down from a regular guitar surface.
Dont know if this helps but I hope so.
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
Ohh yea. I forgot to mention the guitar I am basing the neck off of has a 24 fret 25 1/2" scale neck. I could base it off of my Gibson Les Paul 22 fret neck. I understand what you mean with the f-holes I was planing on making them approx 3 inches long and kind of thin with the holes on the end about 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch or whatever looks right after I draw them up.
Hi Jim,

I think your looking at the process backwards. The number of frets is an "accident" of how long your scale length is... and where you place the bridge. Like steve said, usually 1/3 from the tail of the box... so say you have a 9 inch box, that'd be six inches of "scale over the box and the rest over the neck (by the way, I just ran the numbers thru the StewMac fret calculator http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator ) and a nine inch box with the bridge at 3 inches from the tail will give you 24 frets. Obviously, the more you move the bridge toward the neck, the more frets on the neck and the longer the neck will have to be. Anyway, for most slide guitar, much above 21 frets is pretty esoteric. ( I guess if you need more "frets" you could always build a cutaway...LOL...it's been done.)

let us see the out come... we love new builders...

the best,

Wichita Sam


Jim138 said:
Ohh yea. I forgot to mention the guitar I am basing the neck off of has a 24 fret 25 1/2" scale neck. I could base it off of my Gibson Les Paul 22 fret neck. I understand what you mean with the f-holes I was planing on making them approx 3 inches long and kind of thin with the holes on the end about 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch or whatever looks right after I draw them up.
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.

The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).

jim said:
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
Hi,

Could you elaborate please on how "soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument" and how this truth transfers to the acoustic sound properties of a typical CBG? Are you suggesting the f-holes are superior or inferior to simple round holes? On the old forum there was some discussion about the total size of sound holes being the significant issue... I'm not fussing with you, but really am interested in the information.

the best,

Wichita Sam

Junk Box Instruments said:
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.

The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).

jim said:
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
I am a first time builder myself and this is what I have learned, if you would like to play both acoustic and electric, build it like an acoustic guitar so you can add a pickup or piezo. THe neck should not touch the sound board in this design. If its an electric then it does not matter significantly if there are holes or if the neck is mounted to the soundboard. Comments from everyone welcomed as I am learning this art also.


Wichita Sam said:
Hi,

Could you elaborate please on how "soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument" and how this truth transfers to the acoustic sound properties of a typical CBG? Are you suggesting the f-holes are superior or inferior to simple round holes? On the old forum there was some discussion about the total size of sound holes being the significant issue... I'm not fussing with you, but really am interested in the information.

the best,

Wichita Sam

Junk Box Instruments said:
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.

The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).

jim said:
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
i believe my original statement has been misinterpreted.
My COHIBA electric (not piezo) has no sound holes at all. It does not have the sound projection as my first, more acoustic CBG, but I can still play with no amp. This I suppose is due to the body being hollow.

$.02

-Wes

Junk Box Instruments said:
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.

The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).

jim said:
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
My experience is that a small hole- maybe 1/2" - is all you really need- but hey it should look cool too! Bridge and soundboard material also make a big difference.

Wade

Wes Yates said:
My COHIBA electric (not piezo) has no sound holes at all. It does not have the sound projection as my first, more acoustic CBG, but I can still play with no amp. This I suppose is due to the body being hollow.

$.02

-Wes

Junk Box Instruments said:
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.

The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).

jim said:
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
So do you think that size box and neck with that scale and 24 frets would be ok. Most of the CBG I have seen have a shorter neck with 19 or 20 frets. It is my first build and I dont want to build something thats not going to sound or play right.

Wichita Sam said:
Hi Jim,

I think your looking at the process backwards. The number of frets is an "accident" of how long your scale length is... and where you place the bridge. Like steve said, usually 1/3 from the tail of the box... so say you have a 9 inch box, that'd be six inches of "scale over the box and the rest over the neck (by the way, I just ran the numbers thru the StewMac fret calculator http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator ) and a nine inch box with the bridge at 3 inches from the tail will give you 24 frets. Obviously, the more you move the bridge toward the neck, the more frets on the neck and the longer the neck will have to be. Anyway, for most slide guitar, much above 21 frets is pretty esoteric. ( I guess if you need more "frets" you could always build a cutaway...LOL...it's been done.)

let us see the out come... we love new builders...

the best,

Wichita Sam


Jim138 said:
Ohh yea. I forgot to mention the guitar I am basing the neck off of has a 24 fret 25 1/2" scale neck. I could base it off of my Gibson Les Paul 22 fret neck. I understand what you mean with the f-holes I was planing on making them approx 3 inches long and kind of thin with the holes on the end about 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch or whatever looks right after I draw them up.
Don't panic. Just throw the first build together and don't sweat about frets. Make the first one as fast as you can. You can always add fret markers and soundholes later if you think you need them. More important to overcome the first build anxiety. I put it off for almost 6 months overthinking everything. See what the first build is like and then plan future builds according to what more you want in your next models.

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