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Ohh yea. I forgot to mention the guitar I am basing the neck off of has a 24 fret 25 1/2" scale neck. I could base it off of my Gibson Les Paul 22 fret neck. I understand what you mean with the f-holes I was planing on making them approx 3 inches long and kind of thin with the holes on the end about 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch or whatever looks right after I draw them up.
sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.
The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).
jim said:sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
Hi,
Could you elaborate please on how "soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument" and how this truth transfers to the acoustic sound properties of a typical CBG? Are you suggesting the f-holes are superior or inferior to simple round holes? On the old forum there was some discussion about the total size of sound holes being the significant issue... I'm not fussing with you, but really am interested in the information.
the best,
Wichita Sam
Junk Box Instruments said:I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.
The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).
jim said:sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.
The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).
jim said:sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
My COHIBA electric (not piezo) has no sound holes at all. It does not have the sound projection as my first, more acoustic CBG, but I can still play with no amp. This I suppose is due to the body being hollow.
$.02
-Wes
Junk Box Instruments said:I disagree. I've found that soundholes make a significant difference to the acoustic sound of an instrument (although obviously they have less effect on the electric sound). However, as regards exact size and design, it's a bit of a hit and miss affair as to what's optimal.
The fact that circular holes are popular is probably down in a large part to them being relatively easy to make. An f-hole is quite an elaborate shape - it might be difficult to produce a neat one if you're working with some of the lower quality box materials which splinter and tear easily (and also if you're working with basic tools and you're not an experienced woodworker).
jim said:sound holes in most cbg's are strictly cosmetic as far as sound
Hi Jim,
I think your looking at the process backwards. The number of frets is an "accident" of how long your scale length is... and where you place the bridge. Like steve said, usually 1/3 from the tail of the box... so say you have a 9 inch box, that'd be six inches of "scale over the box and the rest over the neck (by the way, I just ran the numbers thru the StewMac fret calculator http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator ) and a nine inch box with the bridge at 3 inches from the tail will give you 24 frets. Obviously, the more you move the bridge toward the neck, the more frets on the neck and the longer the neck will have to be. Anyway, for most slide guitar, much above 21 frets is pretty esoteric. ( I guess if you need more "frets" you could always build a cutaway...LOL...it's been done.)
let us see the out come... we love new builders...
the best,
Wichita Sam
Jim138 said:Ohh yea. I forgot to mention the guitar I am basing the neck off of has a 24 fret 25 1/2" scale neck. I could base it off of my Gibson Les Paul 22 fret neck. I understand what you mean with the f-holes I was planing on making them approx 3 inches long and kind of thin with the holes on the end about 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch or whatever looks right after I draw them up.
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