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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on July 11, 2014 at 8:30pm

Did your neck de-stickify?  One question:  When you put the finish on it, did you wipe off the excess?  Any oil finish needs to be applied, allowed to soak in, then wiped off...

If it's still sticky, get some mineral spirits/Paint thinner and wipe it off... let it dry and try again...

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on July 12, 2014 at 6:51am

on the suject of neck finishes, a simple spray poly "satin" finish works great... if the neck is sanded well.. and if you do a couple coats, thin.... the satin finish is attractive and not "sticky" to the touch when playing like gloss or shiny...

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 12, 2014 at 9:58am

Here's the shine. Not too sticky anymore

Attachments:

• image.jpg, 1.6 MB

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Permalink Reply by robert jones on July 12, 2014 at 10:06am

Dude...4 days...shouldn't be sticky at all!!!

Either you've had 100% humidity the whole time or you need to try what John Sawyer suggested. If it isn't dry by now anything you add will intensify the tackiness.

A wipe down with mineral spirits won't take all the finish off but it will remove the gummy crap. Once that dries you can decide if you need to re-coat...with a thin layer of finish.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 12, 2014 at 11:51am

I forgot to mention it is dry ...very light sandpaper maybe now ...or a wax? It's pretty smooth just could be a little more...

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on July 12, 2014 at 12:51pm

Looks good, but it looks like you put a heavy coat on it.   Oil finishes don't dry, they cure/oxidize.  The oils form natural polymers, but absorb Oxygen in the process.  Which is why thick layers get sticky.   Even boiled linseed oil cures in a day, especially in warm weather.  Oil blends (Danish oil, Tung oil) should do even better...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 12, 2014 at 2:53pm

Which mineral spirits do you use? The odorless kind?

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on July 12, 2014 at 3:27pm

That carp is worthless. Get the real stuff... The stuff that causes dain brammage works best.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 12, 2014 at 4:17pm

Where do I get it? I looked Home Depot /lowes etc

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on July 12, 2014 at 4:46pm

It's also called Paint Thinner...  Worst case, Naptha is ok, too.

It SHOULD work, no guarantees.

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on July 12, 2014 at 5:19pm

My experience is limited, so take it with a grain of salt...  

IMHO, drying oils (aka OLD SCHOOL) work well because they soak into the wood, and provide a deep finish.  You can sand the wood WITH the oil, and just wipe it off.

I've been playing with Lacquers lately, and find they work really well, but the solvents are nasty (Liver/Brain damage and all that.)   The spray enamels (rustoleum, etc.) work well, too, but none of them really soak into the wood, they just provide a clear barrier.

I see no reason not to use non-oil finishes, but something about me just loves the smell of linseed oil.  Makes me think of my grandfather...

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Permalink Reply by Titch the Clown on July 12, 2014 at 8:03pm

I am currently using either Minwax wipe on poly or old school golden shellac flakes dissolved in methylated spirits. When done to a higher standard this is also known as French polish. I also soak my bridges in shellac which hardens them up a bit. The meths based shellac also dries pretty damn quick, which is good as my attention span, Oh look shiny!

In an odd bit of nanny stateism meths in Australia is >95% ethanol <0.5% bittering agent and 0% methanol. Apparently the government thought it excessive to condemn people to permanent brain damage, blindness and death just for dodging alcohol taxes. Don't think them too kind as the other use for methanol is to turn vegetable oil into biodiesel and the government loves its fuel taxes.

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