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Geez - wanna trade??!!????? :-)
Hey Kid - I showed you my pictures....... so........
your turn........
:-)
i think what you are suggesting IS a scarf joint,but with more work involved
Yeah I think the end result is a scarf joint. Just in my mind it would be easier to get a better bond clamping two flat pieces together than clamping on an angle. I think that method would better suit my headstock style as well as I carve curves going from the back of the neck to the back of the headstock.
yep ,that method would be good if you want to radius the fillet area
I do something a little similar to that. After reducing the thickness of the end 6" to 5/8", I make a 7 degree cut with the blade edge outside of the back edge of stock. This cut is just under 6" long. I now have a wedge I place on the back, adjusting until I have a 5/8" peghead. I add wings, but would not have to. - here is a sketch
Just tried this, glue drying as I type. As I mentioned earlier, I was going to do this after cutting out the shape, but The Phrygian Kid and you made a bit more sense. I like the idea of sliding the shim back and forth the adjust the height. I also like the idea that the neck is one piece. I haven't tried the "add ears" method yet.
I don't know about this one but I would love to see a sliding dovetail joint
I think I,m with Ron on this one no time saved and the other way is much more simpler to do ...
but its a good idea if you are looking for a two tones of wood on the neck ... maybe..so..not a bad idea right?
Well sir, I've made several necks using this exact method. I still glued ears on the sides so you couldn't see the joint line. This widens the head and also, I think, strengthens the joint. This was before I figured out a way to glue a scarf joint without it slipping. Now I mainly use scarf joints for the one cut advantage that Oily mentioned. No problems whatsoever with the previous method.
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