Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Starfish, darling on September 16, 2009 at 1:42pm

Has anyone tried a paste wax finish as well? I was considering it, but it seemed like it would make the neck sticky. Maybe that's just my perception.

I was going to try Tung oil, but I kept asking for teak oil and the Home Depot guys looked at me like I was a dumb girl or something.

Ha!

On a side note, I use a lot of resin in some of my other crafts, a very thick, two-part polyester tabletop resin. (I'm sure you've all see clocks made of slices of trees with that thick resin top.) I was thinking of sealing in some of the great label art on cigar boxes with this resin, but I wonder if it will adversely affect the sound. Has anyone tried any of this stuff on cbgs? The brand name is EnviroTex.

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Permalink Reply by Lionel Berthelon on September 16, 2009 at 2:03pm

I love using tung oil, needs to dry right but the end result of good wood and a hand rubbing gives it authentic finish.
I just mixed one part tung oil/one part linseed/one part poly, why? I was low on each and to combine to get enough. I stained a solid cbg my dad made then hit it with three handrubbed layers of mix. Let it dry real gooooood, used a scotchrite pad to smooth it then 0000 wool and to boot the wood smells so good. I have pix of it up before finish and i think finished, if not I will.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on September 16, 2009 at 2:27pm

For acoustic, that would likely dull the sound substantially. If you're going to make electric, you can do anything you want. Sure would be cool looking, that's for sure!

How do you spread it on the top and not have it dribble down the sides? I am assuming you're going for that glassy look?

Starfish, darling said:

Has anyone tried a paste wax finish as well? I was considering it, but it seemed like it would make the neck sticky. Maybe that's just my perception.

I was going to try Tung oil, but I kept asking for teak oil and the Home Depot guys looked at me like I was a dumb girl or something.

Ha!

On a side note, I use a lot of resin in some of my other crafts, a very thick, two-part polyester tabletop resin. (I'm sure you've all see clocks made of slices of trees with that thick resin top.) I was thinking of sealing in some of the great label art on cigar boxes with this resin, but I wonder if it will adversely affect the sound. Has anyone tried any of this stuff on cbgs? The brand name is EnviroTex.

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Permalink Reply by Kevin Morgan on September 16, 2009 at 4:24pm

I love tru oil myself but I did use a spray enamel on my first as I didnt want to take the time to use tru oil but I use it on my bows I make and it works great. if you want a flat finish just lightly 0000 steel wool it after last coat.

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on September 16, 2009 at 4:29pm

for quick and dirty builds I use spray on polyurethane... for nicer builds I look to tung oil....

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Permalink Reply by Tom Lanford on September 16, 2009 at 4:32pm

I've often used the Formsby Tung Oil, like Diane, with very good results. The more coats, the darker the "stain" effect, if the wood is natural to begin with. Goes on just as well if the wood is stained beforehand too. Very easy to apply and extremely forgiving on streaks and such. 3 to 4 coats does a great job.

I've also used a lot of the Vaspar Spray Laquer on my bodies, and even used it on the last CBG neck I made. Very good results with it as well. Quick drying, and also seems to be very good about not running or streaking.

Diane said:

Tung oil for me. Lots of light coats, little steel wool in between. Super easy to mend shop dings at the end, too. Swab a bit on and a lil scratch is gone.

My brand (Homer Formsby!) finishes glossier than the Danish oil from the hardware store. I just bought a new can of Behr tung oil, have not tried it yet. My danish oil is rich looking, but not shiny or glossy or even a sheen at all. Maybe I need to muscle up on the sanding in between.

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Permalink Reply by Mortimer Snerd on September 16, 2009 at 10:43pm

Watco Danish Oil, stains, seals, protects, simple rub on finish. Paper towel the excess off, dries fast.

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Permalink Reply by StarGeezers on September 17, 2009 at 1:39am

We've used Tru-Oil for Most of our guitar builds and on all of our necks ... We just pot a drop or two on the wood and rub, rub, rub , till it gets tacky... once that coat is dry , another and another .... after a few coats we use 4/0 steel wool across the grain , then more coats ... more rubbing ... about 10 coats produces a finish that rivals a good poly finisg , and if you wait a couple weeks , it will buff up to a High Shine !!!
One little bottle will do 3 or 4 guitars , and probably a whole bunch of CBG necks ... Trick is not to apply too much at one time ... just a couple drops followed by a lot of rubbing ... the less you use the better it works ...

FWIW , we also use it on the longbows we make , so the flexibility of the finish has been well tested... Repairs easily too ...

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Permalink Reply by Starfish, darling on September 17, 2009 at 5:28am

The trick to not dribbling down the sides is to first, find a nice level place where the piece won't be moved and pour the resin there, pour it slowly to almost fill the space, then spread it right to the edge - don't worry about it being 'lumpy' looking, it will self level - then pour more, a little at a time and let the surface tension hold it at the edge.

If it does make the dive down the edge, don't worry about it. it takes a few days for it to set up rock hard, so after a day, you can trim away any dribbles and sand and polish the edges once it's completely set up.

It's better to avoid that if possible, as the sand and polish method is a lot of work.

Also, any bubbles in the resin will break up with a gentle breath - the carbon dioxide in your breath breaks the bubbles, not the force or heat of your breath. A glance with a small butane torch does the same thing.

Diane said:

For acoustic, that would likely dull the sound substantially. If you're going to make electric, you can do anything you want. Sure would be cool looking, that's for sure!
How do you spread it on the top and not have it dribble down the sides? I am assuming you're going for that glassy look?

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Permalink Reply by Vince Stark on September 17, 2009 at 4:18pm

Three parts tung oil to one part boiled linseed oil is a great sealer! It takes a little more drying time. It can be steel wooled and buffed for a nice smooth neck action. It looks natural and not plastic. I then clean and use a little lemon oil for upkeep and fragrance! This is what I use on my $2000 bass guitar, the instrument that earns my living....

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Permalink Reply by Vince Stark on September 17, 2009 at 4:28pm

Polyurethane should NOT be used on ANYTHING you love and respect! Lemon oil is just mineral oil with a very little actual lemon oil in it. Lemon oil is used on fret boards to "moisturize" the wood, and also for open grained finish maintenance. I use it about twice a year on my instruments, and on every neck that comes to my shop.

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on September 17, 2009 at 5:09pm

wow... nice to have a realexpert to tell us how to do it right....

Vince Stark said:

Polyurethane should NOT be used on ANYTHING you love and respect! Lemon oil is just mineral oil with a very little actual lemon oil in it. Lemon oil is used on fret boards to "moisturize" the wood, and also for open grained finish maintenance. I use it about twice a year on my instruments, and on every neck that comes to my shop.

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