I've had several requests for 4 stringers. Are there any extra steps I should take to avoid problems with the extra tension by the added string (i.e. avoiding neck bow and lid crush)?
If you were to tune a 4 stringer to open G, what would the 4th string be?
Is it more common to tune a 4 stringer to open tuning or normal guitar tuning? (I realize you can do what ever you want, the requests come from people who want gift these to other guitar players so they don't know what they want and don't want to ask the giftee what they want because that will spoil the surprise.)
Any tips you can provide for me will be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
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I use the same construction method except I use a separate fingerboard and I all ways reinforce the neck with a steel trussrod(round or flat with long side up/down). Also use supports for the box piece. Might be considered overkill, but too much is better than not enough and the heavier box helps counter balance the heavier neck.
This is a good solution and the glue lamination also helps add strength. If you have a table saw, you can set the right blade height and cut the slot for the flat bar. 1/8" x 1/2" works well and glue in place when you glue the two pieces together.
You can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot in the area where they have chain, screws and bolts. They have the steel round and flat bar and threaded rod from 1', 2' and 3' lengths. Aluminum round, square and flat bar and many sizes of channel. Some Brass is available too. The aluminum and brass make good nuts if a simple bolt doesn't do it for you.
Thanks! I've been using a similar method as Wayfinder for my 3 stringers, the difference is instead of 2 1/2" pieces I use a 1x2 plus a 1/4" fretboard. I've been using mostly maple for the neck and fretboards but I may go with oak for the 4 stringers because of it's extra stiffness. And thanks for all the tunings!
There are a number of comments about the steel reinforced neck. Has anyone built 4 stringers with out reinforcing it with steel? I'm trying to figure out if that is necessary, helpful, or overkill.
I made a 4 stringer neck out of pine that I had lying around, warped quickly even though it had a Red Oak fretboard glued on. Had to go back and add the steel reinforcement. Some have use Oak, Maple and Mahogany without the steel and had no problems and some have had problems.
The best wood to use is the hardest of the hard woods and a quarter sawn(wood grain runs vertical to the fretboard) piece. Separate glue on fretboard helps add strength and chance are you won't need the steel. If its flat sawn(wood grain runs horizontal to the fretboard), I would add the steel. I wouldn't use any softer hardwood(Basswood, Pine, Poplar) without the steel reinforcement.
Most of the 3 stringer CBG's don't have steel reinforced necks that I'm aware of. Adding more strings(4 to 6) adds a lot more stress. Scale length has a lot to do with it as well.
Maple is great for necks, try to get a quarter sawn piece if possible. If the neck starts to ramp/warp on you, you can always route/cut/drill a channel on the back side and add the steel later. Ever seen a Fender neck with a dark piece of wood(AKA Skunk Stripe) running down the back?
2 1/2" pieces glued together will be stronger than 1 3/4" and 1 1/4" piece for sure. I might go this route next time myself.
The quarter sawn pieces can be hard to find because the lumber yards usually roll the the logs in and cut rather than check the grain position.
What strings out of a standard six pack would you use for the GDGB tuning, David? I've seen this tuning around while I've been looking and it seems a common one and perhaps a good start for my first 4-string. I use slide a LOT too (mostly to hide the fact that I can't play) so an open tuning like this would be good in that regards perhaps?
I build 4-strings typically. I don't have to worry about the top caving in because I add "wings" inside to accommodate the width of the tele-style bridge plate. This give a lot of support under the top. The neck is screwed in at the tail-end of the guitar plus screws from the bridge keep it well locked in place. The downside would be less resonance from the top. For me it's not much of a problem as this guitar had magnetic pickups and is primarily not used as an acoustic. If you go this route be sure to cut a relief to be able to slip your pickups in before you add the wings. Once those are glued on the neck will not come back out.I have yet to have a problem with the tension on my 4-string necks without using a truss rod. No shame in installing one though. It could only make it even stronger. I use oak or maple. I look the neckwood over real good at the store to make sure it's dead straight if it's for the neck.
Note however I don't use cigar boxes. the bottom of this box is actually the top. The top will be the back that will open up with a latch and hinges. That may make this different than what is possible with your build.
As far as tunings go, I have a great video suggestion 4-string tunings. It's a youtube video that Justin Johnson put out. Long video but well worth it.
I use the middle 4 - A/D/G/B and tune the A down to G. That way I can go back to A for some Classic Blues/Rock when I feel like it.
David
Use the low E as a snare in a Cajon?
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