Hi everyone...I'm a first time builder and I've used the Stewart McDonald fret calculator with a 22 fret 24.75" scale...same as my Les Paul. I've drawn the frets, as calculated, out on the CGB neck, but the positions don't match up with my Les Paul exactly. Is there something I'm missing?? Now I'm not sure what to do.
Thanks for the help,
Bill in Mobile
Tags:
The first thing I would check is the les pauls actual scale length. Measure from the fingerboard edge of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret and multiply by 2.
The reasoning is that over the years Gibson has used four different actual scale lengths, but yet called them all 24 3/4"
Review this page: http://www.stewmac.com/scalelengthtone.html
Hope that helps,
Mark
Amen Mark. Funny thing about scale lengths -- When I build and fret the neck, I find that even tho I use a scale (in this case 24 3/4") and I can measure 12 3/8" at the 12th fret, the scale is never exactly 24 3/4". It might be longer or shorter. Depends. Yes, I know the reason but odd tho still.
Bill, Just trust what you did. OH and if you printed a template off onto paper, keep in mind that any printer won't print at exactly 100%. You will have to fudge sometimes. I print off a series of marks from a graphics program, measure, get the difference and print off at the correct percentage. For me its usually 98.5% or scale the image up 101.523%
And its a good idea to measure in mm instead of inches.
-WY
No template...I used a tape measure and an engineering scale broken down in tenths of an inch (and high magnification to see the middle of the marks). For each fret, I measure to the inch from the nut with the tape measure, then in 10ths of an inch with the scale to mark the exact position of the fret.
The calculator says the 18th fret should be at 16 inches. On my Les Paul Studio, the 18th fret is a little more than a 16th of an inch short of 16 inches. I believe my Les Paul was set up with Gibsons Plek system at the factory. Maybe that accounts for some of the difference.
Well...since everyone is using the fret calculator, I'll trust it and keep the frets as calculated. I'll be playing slide with it anyway.
I'll purchase a tape measure in mm for the next guitar.
Thanks for the suggestions!!
Bill
Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:
Amen Mark. Funny thing about scale lengths -- When I build and fret the neck, I find that even tho I use a scale (in this case 24 3/4") and I can measure 12 3/8" at the 12th fret, the scale is never exactly 24 3/4". It might be longer or shorter. Depends. Yes, I know the reason but odd tho still.
Bill, Just trust what you did. OH and if you printed a template off onto paper, keep in mind that any printer won't print at exactly 100%. You will have to fudge sometimes. I print off a series of marks from a graphics program, measure, get the difference and print off at the correct percentage. For me its usually 98.5% or scale the image up 101.523%
And its a good idea to measure in mm instead of inches.
-WY
I have a metal yard stick ruler something like this one:
http://www.draftingsteals.com/20612.html
It has metric which I find much easier to use for frets and the ruler is much better than the tape measure, the little tab on the end of the tape adds some room for error, the ruler is easier to use and more accurate, added bonus I use this ruler for neck alignment, and nut to bridge placement. Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go. I use a mechanical pencil with a really small tip some use a razor knife but I make mistakes and pencil is easier to erase. Cheers Ron.
in my experience with cutting fret slots..
if it looks right, it is..
even if a fret slot is out buy half a millimeter you can detect it with your eye, the logarithmic curve they get closer to each other by as you run your eye down the neck is obvious and apparent. (assuming you're doing equal temperament of course)
in my experience with cutting fret slots..
if it looks right, it is..
even if a fret slot is out buy half a millimeter you can detect it with your eye, the logarithmic curve they get closer to each other by as you run your eye down the neck is obvious and apparent. (assuming you're doing equal temperament of course)
... Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go. .....
Awesome...I'll look into ordering the 36" ruler. I attempted to upload a pic of the neck, but it didn't work or will take a very long time to upload. Is there something in my security settings to set so I can upload a pic?
Tnx,
Mungo Park said:
I have a metal yard stick ruler something like this one:
http://www.draftingsteals.com/20612.html
It has metric which I find much easier to use for frets and the ruler is much better than the tape measure, the little tab on the end of the tape adds some room for error, the ruler is easier to use and more accurate, added bonus I use this ruler for neck alignment, and nut to bridge placement. Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go. I use a mechanical pencil with a really small tip some use a razor knife but I make mistakes and pencil is easier to erase. Cheers Ron.
Awesome...I'll look into ordering the 36" ruler. I attempted to upload a pic of the neck, but it didn't work or will take a very long time to upload. Is there something in my security settings to set so I can upload a pic?
Tnx,
Mungo Park said:I have a metal yard stick ruler something like this one:
http://www.draftingsteals.com/20612.html
It has metric which I find much easier to use for frets and the ruler is much better than the tape measure, the little tab on the end of the tape adds some room for error, the ruler is easier to use and more accurate, added bonus I use this ruler for neck alignment, and nut to bridge placement. Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go. I use a mechanical pencil with a really small tip some use a razor knife but I make mistakes and pencil is easier to erase. Cheers Ron.
Amen Mark. Funny thing about scale lengths -- When I build and fret the neck, I find that even tho I use a scale (in this case 24 3/4") and I can measure 12 3/8" at the 12th fret, the scale is never exactly 24 3/4". It might be longer or shorter. Depends. Yes, I know the reason but odd tho still.
Bill, Just trust what you did. OH and if you printed a template off onto paper, keep in mind that any printer won't print at exactly 100%. You will have to fudge sometimes. I print off a series of marks from a graphics program, measure, get the difference and print off at the correct percentage. For me its usually 98.5% or scale the image up 101.523%
And its a good idea to measure in mm instead of inches.
-WY
in my experience with cutting fret slots..
if it looks right, it is..
even if a fret slot is out buy half a millimeter you can detect it with your eye, the logarithmic curve they get closer to each other by as you run your eye down the neck is obvious and apparent. (assuming you're doing equal temperament of course)
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