I've got a small Sweet Tin, a couple lengths of wood, a machine head and a pair of Piezo's on the way and I'm not quite sure about how to do this.
I have made a Diddley Bow before, it had a very short scale length, must of been no more than 15 inches, and it featured a P-bass pickup and an E string held in place with three nails and was honestly a little rubbish, so I intend for this to be an improvement, so I have a few questions.
1. what kind of scale length should I work with on this, I was think of a Strat 25.5 scale and then use a Strat neck as a guide for fret markings?
2. what kind of string clearance should I have between the wood and the string, so it doesn't affect my playing?
3. which string should I use, I was think a d string or a String tuned up or down to d or would something else be more practical?
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Scale length is subjective. It canbe whatever you like. I use a 25" scale, as I have a template for it. I did use my first CBG, which was a kit to mark up the frets for my second build though, so using the strat neck is a workable idea.
String clearance depends on what you want to do. If you're just playin slide, it's not critical. If you're going to fret the neck and play notes with you fingers you'll want to try and set your height. You can read up on the height and find recommended heights. 1/64 to 1/32 depending on thestring you use.
Which string do you use? What key do want? I use whatever spare strings I have for my canjos. So If I have an E string I tune it to E. D string I tune D, etc.
Remember there are no rules. Have fun and build it your way.
Thanks Blues Frog, I think I will stick with the D string tuned to D, I can riff quite nicely with just a D string. I will be using just a slide for playing, there will be no frets, I can have the height quite high if needed, depends on the height of the tin since the string will rest on top of it, but I will adjust its height if needed. and I will be sticking with the strat neck scale and also use it as reference for markers on the board so I know where to place the slide on the string.
Hope it works out to your liking. Have fun and play on!
If it doesn't have frets then you don't have to worry about scale lengths.
A good way to work out where the frets would go from any scale length is this..
Measure the distance between where your nut and bridge is (these can be any distance apart)
Multiply by 0.3439 = fret 1, then multiply by 0.9439 = fret 2, then multiply by 0.9439... You get the point.
Check your 12th fret marker is in the middle.. Then your good to go.
This way you can just build, then after the build that's when you work out what scale length you have. Hassle free.
That's an interesting method of calculation, I will have to try that, I will be doing it up to the 12th fret position, I don't think I will need position markers after that, especially with a D string, but you never know.
it's a simple calculation, each fret is closer to the bridge/saddle than the last by a factor of the twelfth root of two or 94.387431268% the distance away.
fret 0 = bridge_to_nut_length
fret 1 = bridge_to_nut_length * .94387431268
fret 2 = bridge_to_nut_length * .94387431268 * .94387431268
fret 3 = bridge_to_nut_length * .94387431268 * .94387431268 * .94387431268
ad. nauseum...
attoparsecs and muggeseggeles are handy units.:)
I am very confused with all this mathematics so I went with the 25.5 scale and used a strat neck as reference for position markers, just up to the 12 fret mark though.
The mathematics are quite easy.
However.. All those little fractions of a mm that happen in builds NOT done by a CNC machine (or a very skilled luthierian I may add) are what give an instrument it's character.
I'm all for living with odd slightly off frets with strange harmonics. In fact, I do love them.
So forget about the precision mathematics. Go with it.. It will make that guitar unique and whatever you play on it, can never be placed 'exactly like' that on any other instrument.
It's just something to think about.
Brian May loves his guitar :)
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