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Different thru neck method?

I haven't seen this from others so I thought I'd share. (if it is old news then I was the last to know!) Basically it is just two boards, one for the neck and the other for the thru part. It seems to give an advantage in that it creates an angled neck and is one less joint. The angle keeps the neck from touching the top without extra recessing on the neck. Depending on the wood used, the depth of the front cut out, and the length of the box determines the angle of the neck. Using 3/4" wood gave me a bridge height of about 1/2". I did it on a built box but the same approach would work with a cigar box. Ignore the cut out part, that is because there is no separate fretboard and I wanted the frets to extend over the box. If it seems short that is because it is - it is going to be a concert scale uke LPU.

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Permalink Reply by Mickey Ray Parker on April 30, 2016 at 6:27pm

I often do this on builds using boxes with thick lids. With thicker lids, I was having to cut way too much out to keep the neck from touching the underside of the lid. This way allows for a more substantial neck going through the box. Another plus is you can have a heel. I have done three prices: one for the neck, one going through the box, and one for tail coming out of the box.

Looks like you've got a cool build going there. What are the box sides made of?

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on May 1, 2016 at 9:31am

The sides are old oak flooring, I like it for license plates as the tongue makes a good recess for the plate. I also like it for necks, old wood that is dry,strong and straight. It is cheaper than new wood too.

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Permalink Reply by Mickey Ray Parker on May 1, 2016 at 9:41am

Great idea. Functional and looks cool, too.

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on May 2, 2016 at 4:02am

Kigar,

Looks good. I use a separate fretboard for several reasons. The main one is that if you screw up the frets, you have to pretty much scrap the whole neck. I fret the fingerboard before attaching it. Then I use hide glue. In case of a disaster you can remove the fretboard.

Also, I don't do neck thru on ukes. With the shorter neck, a bolt on works fine. I think the sound is a little better without the extra mass of wood in the body. I am using the "barrel" type connector and a 1/4 X 20 screw for the mounting. Drill a vertical hole in the neck near the back end, drop the barrel in and cover the hole with the fretboard. Those connectors are the kind used in Ikea furniture. I can't remember their real name. I learned about this method from this site.

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on May 2, 2016 at 1:41pm

I go both ways with fretboards or without. If it was messed up I could take it down and use a thick fretboard I suppose (or burn it in the fire pit in a fit of anger and shame!). My previous ukes were bolt on, I agree they're plenty strong but just trying something different with this one.