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Just like you have it... the strings are Thin, thick, thinner, thinnest...
Thanks for the input fellas, since there seems to be opposing views, I've included an opposing view. I think so far I'm leaning to Ron's side on this.
So it IS a mystery! I believe I will be using re-entrant tuning, if that is "standard" concert uke tuning, and I believe it is where you have a small string on top, then the big, med, and small (very scientific!) ?
While Holding the Uke... the string highest up should be at the left...in the original picture... I think what I described was a lefty build... Sorry ... I AM WRONG
Leave the bone bridge, put the wood piece on the other side...
Also, on this same subject, should the whole bridge saddle assembly also be compensated? ie 15" plus 1/16" or does that only apply to non compensated saddles? Wow, a floating bridge is so much easier!
I guess that would be 15" MINUS 1/16" ?
Stew-Mac has a calculator for figuring it out for guitar but, if you watch the video on the page linked below, Dan Erlewine has a neat "stone age" device that he clamps on to temporarily make the fixed bridge into a floating one so as to sort it all out...
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Bridges_and_Tailpiec...
I've been thinking about designing my own to work on CBGs/CBUs.
Simple rule, thicker strings need more compensation (more away).
Wow, thanks everyone. I sometimes make things more complicated than they have to be! JL, your answer makes perfect sense and the thing is, I know that already! What was confusing me is the "re-entrant" tuning thing where you have a thin sting on top instead of the thickest string.
Wayfinder, the saddle is the same height all the way across, only the angle of the peaks are different, but thanks for confirming what "Oily " said, flip it.
So the SECOND photo I posted is the correct orientation and "Oily " was right all along!!
And Clark thanks for the link, that is handy!
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