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You can use some 1/4" or 5/16" all-thread and just cut it off with a hacksaw. The strings rest nicely in the threads. Normally you would file a bit of a groove in the fretboard for the bolt to rest in but not everyone does so, the string tension will usually hold it in place pretty good. C B Gitty sells them that are ready to install, already the right length if you want to go that route plus he has anything else you may need for the build and they ship pretty fast too. You may or may not ever want to replace the bolt with a "proper" nut, they work pretty darn good.
Thanks Bruce! Looking forward to getting this done!
You are welcome. Just give a shout if have more questions, there are lots of folks here willing to help out.
Since you're going fretless, the exactness of scale length isn't that important. Depending you how your build the headstock, friction ought to keep the "bolt" in place. If it were a permanent installation, I'd probably groove the neck to stabilize the bolt, but it isn't necessary. The other thing to consider it that if you don't have sufficient ""break" of the strings over the nut, you might want to install string guides. Simply using a pan head screw will not only align the string but provide addition downward pressure on the string for increased stability. You could use Fender style guides, but with a bolt for a nut, a screw might match up better.
just some thoughts. hope it helps..... Wichita Sam
most all of mine use bolts or all thread. Be sure to use a type with"course" thread. The strings will occasionally jump out of the fine thread type. Why would you want to replace the bolt with something that looks store bought? These things are all about cool factor, and a bolt will always have more cool factor than a normal bridge/nut.
There is no need to slot or put a grove in the neck to hold the nut. The string will hold it just fine during normal play. HOWEVER, I would highly advise you to mark the nuts spot with some small witness marks. You want to be able to get it back to the correct spot after a string change or if you get wild and bump it. Same for the bridge.
If you are building lots of instruments, you can also buy threaded rod. Here in China they sell it in two grades of "steel", select the softer grade as it will be a lot easier to saw thru with your hack saw. The softer steel appears duller in luster to the high grade steel. The threading size in metric should be 8 or 10 as I recall. The threads act as string guides, so if they aren't wide enough, your strings won't stay in place so well. Just my 2 maos worth.
-Rand.
Thanks everyone for the great replies!
I've bought both 1/4 and 5/16 rods. I do plan on making a shallow groove in the neck for the rod to fit in. Eventually I plan on replacing it with a nut. Give myself a 12 to 14 inch radius all the way down to the bridge. Better slide control.
I like the look of brass, and have used all thread and reg. bolts for both nut and bridge. Some of my bridges are bolts with 2 nuts to get the height I want.
(this talk of bolts for nuts and nuts on bolts for bridges is making me nutty!) :-/
If you're making simple necks, I've used screws for string trees, but lately, I've used small brass tubing with 2 4x3/4" wood screws, or even a stainless strap.
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