i'm gonna use f-holes on a guitar for the first time, and was thinking of using my coping saw to cut them out..anybody have any better suggestions. coping saw is a pain in the ass!

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Coping saw is what I would use to do the rough cut, followed by files / Dremel for neatening edges / smoothing curves. If I used power saws, I might try a small reciprocating (scroll) saw.
for the template i just print one out cut it out with a razor get in in place then take some spray paint and lightly hit it just enough that it leaves a shadow where the hole is gonna be and then go to hacking.
I'm a Dremel, knife and file guy. Rifler files are great on the curves! Coping saws are too painful for me.
Attachments:

Fantastic work. I have a Dremel and many attachments but can't always figure which ones to use. This helps a lot! Thank you!

Man it don't get any better than that!!!
Is that sound hole accusticly engineered?

Andy Estabrooks said:
I'm a Dremel, knife and file guy. Rifler files are great on the curves! Coping saws are too painful for me.
I've also cut the ends with a drill and the rest with a very sharp razor blade and lots of patience, of course.
Visually engineered maybe.

MichaelS said:
Is that sound hole accusticly engineered?

Andy Estabrooks said:
I'm a Dremel, knife and file guy. Rifler files are great on the curves! Coping saws are too painful for me.

Eventually, I noticed there was a musical instrument surrounding your f-hole. I'm curious about your fret markers. Could you describe them?



Andy Estabrooks said:

Visually engineered maybe.

MichaelS said:
Is that sound hole accusticly engineered?

Andy Estabrooks said:
I'm a Dremel, knife and file guy. Rifler files are great on the curves! Coping saws are too painful for me.

I use F-holes all the time, Since I like a couple of different styles, my goal was to come up with a process that is repeatable 

First I make a template out of 1/8" material. Then I use a carbide grout bit (or zip bit) in my Dremel with the router base. I set it up so that the straight shaft extends past the base (to provide a bearing surface to follow the template). I would prefer an actual bearing but they just don't make them small enough for my designs. Where needed I use a small triangular file to sharpen the corners. 

I take my time and pay attention to the alignment of the template, and I get good results. I found that marking where the template lines up at the top and side allows me to use the same temple for the bass and treble side of the instrument. (I just flip it over and reclamp it in place) I also set the box on bench cookies to allow for the clamps.  As all of the responses to you question illustrate there are usually a number of ways to do a task, this is just how I do it.  Good luck

Draw round a template and then maybe drill a small hole in the middle, then maybe use a jigsaw

I like to use a ,I believe you call it a FRETSAW for my F holes it does the job in all angles clean and strait cut.
dril and file and sandpaper to complete the task. the little screw everywhere table is handy to gives your box support and
if nessesary clamp down.fast and easy GOOD LUCK !! Greeeeeetttsssszzzz   A.D.

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