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Metal nibblers? http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/draper-tinmans-shears-cutters/drape...
Tin snips
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=les%3Bern...
Anyone tried these aviation ones?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Cutters+Snips/Aviation+T...
This suggests it might do the job without bending it...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-HAND-NIBBLER-SHEET-SHEET-ME...
i use a 'dremel' to cut through seams, but you could use a wee hacksaw. use a hammer and wood chisel to cut clean lines without distorting . sorry if you think this hard on the chisel ,but it isn't.;)
Hi Jon,
Let me answer your questions one by one...
1. On the piece of wood on top of the other piece of wood. What kind of saw did you use to cut the chunk of wood out?
I usually use a mini hack saw or a fine toothed "razor saw" to cut my wood. I use a technique where I cut across the wood a series of cuts maybe 1/4" deep and 1/8 to 1/4" apart and then I use a appropriately size chisel and pry out the little blocks of wood between the two adjacent cuts. I repeat this until I have removed most the wood I want to remove and then I take a wood rasp to it, then a wood file and then sandpaper until it is even and smooth as I think it needs to be. Here is a photos that illustrate my method (in the photo I'm building a slotted headstock and want to recess the front face of the headstock by 1/4" or so). A hack saw (or mini hack saw) can do the job. You'll also need a 1" wide chisel, a flat wood rasp, a flat wood file and sand paper. Make sure your work piece is securely clamped down to your work table.
2. The diagram shows lid or bottom of tin as top of guitar ? Just wanna be sure.
The lid could be in either at the top or at the bottom. However, it probably is easiest to do with the lid on the bottom as the lid usually introduce a couple more "bends" or "jogs" that will complicate the cut (or require extra filing, etc.). I'd start building cookie/cake tins with the lid on the bottom, and then experiment with one with the lid on the top. You should see the extra "bends" or "jogs" caused by the lid when you get around to doing it lid side up.
3. Are your main two largest pieces of wood glued-and screwed together? I know the extra piece on the neck must be glued..
The two largest pieces of wood are the neck and the piece of reinforcement wood. These two pieces are glued together for the entire length beginning maybe 1.5" to 2" before the tin and running all the way to the tail end of the tin. Use Tightbond or some white carpenter's glue. Some glues like Gorrilla glue are not suitable for this job (because it expands as it drys, making the joint more visible -- as I understand it). There is no need for wooden dowels, screws or bolts to hold the wood together. White carpenter's glue or Tightbond is strong enough.
The only other blocks of wood shown are the fretboard, the tail piece and the piece of wood under the "bolt & nut" bridge. The fretboard is glued onto the top of the neck for its entire length starting where you plan to place the nut and running down till you get to the tin. You could extend the fretboard over the tin, but I usually don't bother. As long as you have 11 or 12 diatonic frets, you have long enough fretboard. For the tail piece, I use a block of wood, drill 3 holes for the strings and 3 or 4 larger holes for the mounting screws. You need to run the wood screws so they are secured into the tail end of the neck. You'll need to pre-drill these mounting holes. The piece of wood under the bridge is there just to spread the weight of the string tension over a larger are so you don't dent the lid (or bottom) of the tin. It's held in by string pressure.
4. My goal is a finger playing non slide 3 string tin guitar. Since I don't think I can cut the groove with a hacksaw...I'll probably make the guitar with the lid on bottom. A variation of your diagram. Do you have a variation of your diagram that might be made with a hacksaw? Thank you for all your time and help. Hope my questions make sense.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "cut the groove", but you should be able to build a pretty good tin guitar or dulcimer using a relatively simple set of hand tools. The electric drill is the only power tool I use (not counting my computer to access CBN).
If you have further questions, let me know...
-Rand.
Hi Jon,
The sum of the 2 interior wood pieces don't necessarily add up to the original size of the neck -- it depends on the size of the cut-out you make for the neck for the tin plus the thickness of the board that you glue in that reinforces this lower part of the neck (the neck-thru area). I generally use whatever wood I have that seems will fit with the least amount of additional work, and usually the same kind of wood as the neck itself. The minimum amount of wood to add for reinforcement is the same depth as the amount you cut away. But if you have a somewhat thicker piece, it is okay to use that, and your resulting neck should be just that much stronger. When you are done with both the cut-out and have glued on the reinforcement board, let it dry, and have shaped it to your liking, measure the resulting work piece, and then measure your hole of the cake/cookie tin and then make your cuts. I definitely build the neck before measuring and cutting the hole.
With regard to the photo I sent yesterday where the wood looks large, it could be an illusion. The photo is a close up of the headstock, not the cut out for a tin; but the method of cutting is the same. The neck in the photo was built up by laminating together 5 lengths of 3cm by 0.5cm trim wood which is readily available from wood suppliers here in China. Since this photo was of one of my earlier laminated necks, be aware that I now usually use 6 or 7 such lengths of wood so that the resulting neck will be 3 to 3.5cm wide to accept another length of 3cm x 0.5 cm trim wood as the fretboard. You do not need to laminate together your wood to form the neck of your tin guitar. I do because I can't get oak, birch or poplar in long 1.5" x 0.75" dimensions as people can in the States. Any similar dimensioned hardwood should be suitable for a 3-stringer neck. My neck design for tin guitars (dulcimers) is pretty much the same as for my cigar box guitars and my home-made box guitars.
I hope I have answered your questions adequately. Good luck with your project. Let me know if you have further questions.
-Rand.
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