Comment

Comment by juan garcia on June 2, 2013 at 4:05pm

oh.. ok Ron!, about the scale, from the nut to the tailpiece is 24 inches, to my actual bridge is 20 1/2 inches... forward or backwards??? I try to put in the 2 directions but can't find to get the G in the 12th fret D:

Comment by Ron "Oily" Sprague on June 2, 2013 at 3:39pm

Juan,

You don't (necessarily) need new strings, just a new bridge and new nut.

Comment by juan garcia on June 2, 2013 at 12:07pm

THANKS A LOT! i will now work in re-setup my cbg, it's cardbox I THINK, dont know, I WILL PUT THE SCREWS IN THE BRIDGE AND NUT, and I will get some new strings to work. What kind of strings???

So the bridge could need to be more towards the tailpiece or the nut? ok, let me see that.

THANKS I tomorrow I will put with all the changes, not with the strings, I need to buy them.

Comment by RTZGUITARS on June 2, 2013 at 10:37am

Corian looks like bone is easy to work with and sound fine to me but it is not bone.

Comment by RTZGUITARS on June 2, 2013 at 10:32am

Here a little insight for nut and bridge material.

                Comment by RTZGUITARS just now           Delete Comment

Guitar Neck String Nut Materials

Materials	Characteristics/Applications	Sound	Workability
Bone	Hard material with a vintage look, must be cut cleanly to keep strings from binding in slots.	Bright and clear, with a detailed sound.	Hard, dense material.  Bad-smelling dust.
Brass	Hard material polishes well and looks good with gold hardware. Great sustain for bass and slide guitar playing.	Bright with very good sustain.	Slow-working, dust can clog files, gets hot when power-sanded.
Nickel	Made of the same material as our fretwire (18% hard nickel/silver) so it matches sound & look of frets. Polishes well.	Very bright with excellent articulation and sustain.	Very slow working, gets hot when power-sanded.
Graph Tech TUSQ	A Graph Tech proprietary material which is precision engineered under high pressure and heat. It is specifically formulated to deliver an optimum sonic transfer rate. Stringent production methods create consistent material that is rich in tone and harmonic content. Standard TUSQ will have a slightly brighter sound than the Black TUSQ XL.	Evenly balanced tone.	Easy to cut, less shaping required with pre-molded blanks.
Graph Tech Black TUSQ XL	Black TUSQ XL is a similar material to standard TUSQ but is also Teflon impregnated. Teflon is 500% slipperier than graphite. This is great for use on electric guitars that get tremolo use or have tuning stability issues. It is also great for someone who bends notes often.	Well balanced tone with a bit more warmth.	Easy to cut, less shaping required with pre-molded blanks.
Corian	Hard synthetic material takes a fine finish and is available in large oversized blanks.	Balanced, clear, even sound.

Comment by Ron "Oily" Sprague on June 2, 2013 at 9:54am

Agree with LBL and Reeds, hard plastic with a hole through the middle is not the best material to transmit sound. Try some metal screws or bolts of varying diameters to reduce your string height. I thought those were the metal threaded bolts C.B. Gitty supplies with the CBG kits.

Comment by steven smith-- dewy on June 2, 2013 at 9:53am

i agree with low buget luthier change out the nut and bridge 

Comment by Reeds Taylor on June 2, 2013 at 9:48am

One more thing...I play mine thru a clean amp...and don't like as much as I do acoustically...I also have a mini amp with distortion and it has some sweet sound.....so yes...too get the sounding your looking for you may want to try different set ups....just like strings. As too getting the wrong notes....it most likely has to do with the material you subsituted. I suggest use what the kit came with....then work from there to find your sound.

Comment by Ron "Oily" Sprague on June 2, 2013 at 9:48am

Juan,

Yes, the action is a little high. You could file out your nut slot a little deeper, but not too much,, and lower the string height at the nut. You'd have to get a smaller diameter bolt to lower it any more at the bridge. As far as tuning goes, even though it's hard to tell from the one pic you have of the headstock, you appear to have wrapped your strings the wrong way on the tuning heads, also with not enough wraps. This will cause slippage and tuning instability. The string should wrap around the inside of the peg (toward the center of the headstock), and should be wrapped at least 2-3 turns around each peg. There are diagrams and videos all over the Internet showing how to properly wrap a string, including some here on CBN. Also, you don't say what your scale length is (nut to bridge measurement), so it's possible the bridge may need to be set either slightly forward or backward from where it is now. You also may want to angle it slightly. Start with your thickest string, after you get the strings properly wrapped on, and bring it up to pitch ( I assume G?), then play that same note at the 12th fret. They may be slightly off, so angle the bridge toward the tailpiece for the thickest string until you get both the open and 12th fretted note as close as you can. This will be your anchor point for the thickest string; do not move it from there during the next step, but allow the bridge to pivot at that point. Then do the same for the smallest string, moving the bridge end under that string slightly toward the head stock, without moving it under he thickest string. Then bring the middle string up to pitch. You have now set the intonation and done some compromise compensation. Doing all these steps should result in a better tuned git. It looks like you may be using a cardboard, not a wooden, box (hard to tell for sure). You may also find that instead of Open G tuning, this box sounds better or prefers another tuning, like Open D or Open E, or maybe A-D-F#, which allows for movable chord shapes like on a regular six string guitar. This is not uncommon.

Comment by juan garcia on June 2, 2013 at 9:44am

ok, let me do that, thanks guys, latter in the day I will comment of the difference

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• 3
• Next ›
• Page