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Comment by Wichita Sam on July 21, 2009 at 7:04am

bridge pins??? pic please

Comment by gene on July 21, 2009 at 4:23am

Just done with my second CBG and trying to string it, but the bridge pins keep FLYING OUT! any idea why that's happening? I think I might just leave them out all together and use another, more stable solution. too bad because they look purrrty.

Comment by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on July 13, 2009 at 3:35pm

James (Terry?),
You're in Florida and you don't know where to purchase cigar boxes?!? You're north of Tampa. May I suggest Ybor City for starters.

Seriously, and I assume you are too -- any cigar store has them and most have them for sale. I have two in Greenville within three blocks and they sell them for $2 - $6 per box.

Comment by William H Bonney on July 13, 2009 at 3:03pm

I am going to build a D BOW.My first but not sure where to to purchase cigar boxes.

Terry

Comment by Joe Scislowicz on July 13, 2009 at 3:02pm

Thanks Sam. I do a lot of hand work, so I might just give the exacto a shot once I get a template to work from. I love to work with the dremel and have done some inlay work, so it might be fun. I plan to do some practice on some scrap, just to get my skills up. Thanks again.

Comment by Wichita Sam on July 13, 2009 at 6:58am

Hi Joe,

You certainly can "rough out" your f-holes that way. Two things that I would think about is 1) what material you make the template out of. If it's also going to be a "guide" for the router, it needs to be more durable than wood... maybe plexi-glass... 2) be sure to "back" the section you are cutting with a wood block... this will make for much cleaner cuts. Unbacked sections tend to break out and create a ragged appearance.

My experience is that there will be a lot of hand work (exacto knife) to do, even using mechanical tools...

the best,

Wichita Sam

Comment by Joe Scislowicz on July 13, 2009 at 6:17am

Hi folks! I am building a mini strum stick dulcimer. I am using a small Cohiba box. I would like to do f holes on it and make them with a template. I would like to cut them with the dremel as a plunge router with a guide to follow the template. Any advice for doing the template would be apreciated. Thanks.

Comment by Wichita Sam on June 20, 2009 at 3:27pm

over at the Builders forum we regularly have building challenges....

http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/CIGARBOXGUITARBUILDERS/

Comment by Wichita Sam on June 20, 2009 at 4:48am

I was well into my first year of building (about 80+ builds) before I tried a scarf joint. I thought it was too hard to do. Boy was I wrong. Make a simple angled cut (just make sure it's as "square" to neck as you can make it) and use a good glue (I like Titebond II) and let it cure completely (24 hours) and you will have a strong joint. You can get fancy and set up jigs and use "binding agents" like a little fine sand to keep the joint from slipping under clamp pressure, but with a little patience, it's really doable.

That said, I think one of the most elegant headstock designs is a slotted headstock. Solves a lot of the design requirements and has a nice "retro" classic feel...

the best,

Wichita Sam

Comment by Kevin Lawton on June 20, 2009 at 3:53am

Well, I guess that is the way you will find many factory-made guitar headstocks done as it achieves the objetive using the least possible amount of wood. However, you have to be able to make accurate enough joints to be able to hold pefectly against the string pressure.
Obviously you have to have the headstock leaning back at an angle (15 degrees is nice) or resort to the Fender 'bodge' of using string trees.
I take the 'one piece' approach of drawing the profile I want on the sides of a piece of 2 x 2 and then carving it out. It wastes a bit of the timber, but it is all in one strong solid piece with no glue joins.

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