This group is for discussing the basics of CBG building for newer builders - where to start, what to do, common pitfalls, tips and techniques.
Keep in mind that new builders can find other great informative articles on CBG building, as well as most of the parts you'll need, over at C. B. Gitty Crafter Supply!
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I have found that the biggest issues come not from that 30-45 degree bevel but from the sides of that bevel. Running a file the length of the fretboard seems to sharpen the sides. You almost have to dress both sides of each bevel with a small file (or maybe sandpaper) but then you run a great risk of hitting the fretboard and damaging it.
I've seen where some will take a piece of 2"x4", no bigger than a sanding block or what will fit in your hand, and mount/glue a flat file into it at a 30-45 degree angle.
I think Big Daddy was one of the ones I saw do this on YouTube, but want to say at least one other.
Yep, or an even simpler way would be to hold a flat file in your hand at an angle and run up and down the fretboard with it. hen go over it with progressively finer sandpaper until it's smooth :)
I’ve been having problems getting the fret ends really smooth on the side of the fret board. Are there any techniques that will help me with this?
Don't over think this. Two or three coats of semi-gloss (what I use) laquer will work fine. Stain if you want/need to the apply it. The bonus is if you damage the laquer finish, just sand lightly and refinish. I also use the same finish on my woodcarvings.
Thanx for the ideas, guys. I'll probably go with the Miniwax tung oil as I have used many Xs before on other projects. This is my 1st CBG and I'm really chompin' at the bit to get playing on it.
I gotta try the Minwax.. I used a stain and applied 3 coats and since I keep using an almond wood polish but I never got beyond a satin finish.
This might not be the simplest, or best sequence for everyone, but it works for me: After slotting, drilling & installing dots, I use double-stick tape to attach the fret board to the neck & match any neck taper. After that, I REMOVE the fboard, and sand it to 1000-1500g before installing the frets, leveling & beveling them. Then I tape off the top of the fboard and clamp/glue to neck. When dry I clean up any glue drips with a scraper and light sanding. ...Then remove the tape and wipe the neck & fboard with mineral spirits. Then tape-off/bag the box & tape off the fboard, keeping a sharp tape line where the fboard meets the side of the neck. I hang the git from a peghead hole and usually give each neck 6-7 coats of clear gloss spray lacquer. Rustolem is fine, but Deft is a bit easier to use, seems to drip less and comes in matte, satin, gloss, and Hi gloss. Incidentally, one nice thing about lacquer is that you do not need to sand or even do anything between coats. Lacquer will simply adhere to & build on the layer below it. After the neck dries & hardens, I pull the tape and tape off each fret before dressing (with a fret file, a crowning file & 1500g sandpaper wrapped around one of those white rubber erasers.)Then I pull off all that tape, blow & brush any debris from the fboard, and finish the fretboard with tung oil (maple) or Tru Oil (pretty much anything that isn't maple.) Usually 2, maybe 3 coats and dry overnight between coats, also buffing between and definitely lots of buffing after the final coat. I use old cotton t-shirts, but paper coffee filters work well too. Not much finish will build up around the frets. What does is pretty easy to clean/buff/rub it away with a rag and a thumb nail. But, like I said, this is just one guy's fboard sequence, it may not be the best way for everyone.
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