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Comment by Sawdust on January 25, 2013 at 5:31pm

Hi CBGers,

Anyone have an easy technique for mounting coins flush to the body of the cigar box?

Saw

Comment by Oscar Myer on January 18, 2013 at 10:07am

I found the Essential Chords charts that, Michael Glenn, drew up. I found them to be quite helpful. I would like to know where I can get a program to draw them up on my computer for my self to do my own tab. Any leads?

Comment by Michael Recchione on January 8, 2013 at 3:13am

I haven't tried using the bottom as the soundboard yet - this was just my first build.  But it makes a lot of sense.  I've realized that the way I built this CBG, the sound board is pretty severely damped, which seems to really attenuate the high frequencies and produces a fairly dead sound.  Except that, when it's plugged in, it sounds great...

I'll have to get over this, but one of the things that I really love about CBGs is preserving the ornate decoration of the box pretty much intact - some of them are real works of art, in their own way.  I couldn't even bring myself to put knobs or anything on the top of this last one - just a bridge done to match the top as much as possible. 

I've heard people complain about feedback and overly bright tone from piezos, and in fact, I had those issues with a (fairly expensive) Fishman piezo bridge on one of my violins.  But I have had no feedback issues at all with this CBG, and the tone is actually more "warm" than "bright".  I wonder if that had to do with not having sound holes, with having a very damped sound board, or with the way I mounted the piezo elements (hot glue) ...

I guess it's lucky that cigar boxes are dirt cheap, as are poplar 1x2s :)  There's room for lots of experimentation...

I will try using the bottom as the sound board on one of my upcoming builds (yes - I have the bug, big time!).  Maybe on a less attractive box...

Comment by Oscar Myer on January 8, 2013 at 3:02am

tn1.jpg I just finished making a dulcimer & I found that the sound holes made a good difference.

Comment by Order99 on January 7, 2013 at 7:36pm

Have you tried useing the bottom of the box for the soundboard yet? When I do a build that way I can barely tell the difference in tone with the box open or closed tight...A few screws to fasten the box and I can maintenence any pickups or wiring without even destringing the guitar!

As far as hole placement or even the necessity...I'm not sure if there's a concensus on that even now-if it sounds good without soundholes, don't bother. Most of mine do have holes but I get similar tones whether I place them beneath the strings, off to the side or make a series of 1mm holes in a sunburst pattern with a drill. Mind you, many of my builds are Cookie-lid resonators so that metal membrane might be the equalizer..

Comment by Michael Recchione on January 7, 2013 at 3:54am

I just completed my first build last night - a short-scale (about 18 1/2"), 3-string fretless tuned open G (but with heavy strings), a poplar neck, two piezo elements from Radio Shack buzzers, and a smallish box.  (I got into this partially because I want to make a bunch of small instruments - cervical stenosis and carpal tunnel has made playing my full-size instruments really painful...)

I'm really happy with the way it came out, but am wondering about acoustics.  Do sound holes make much difference?  The guitar sounds great through an amp, but I'm wondering if it could sound better unplugged if I did some things differently. 

I saw the comments below about whether the through neck should be relieved or not, and how the guitars without the relief actually sounded better unplugged, and it made me think about the importance (or not) of bracing for the top.  "Real" guitars have bracing members under the top to stiffen it and to control the modes of vibration in order to make the nicest sound - in fact, this is part of the art of acoustic guitar building - getting the bracing right to get the best sound out of the top.  Anyone done any experimenting with that?  I found that the one I just finished actually sounds better if I fix the box lid firmly to the box itself, rather than letting it be held closed by the pressure of the strings...

Comment by Ken Henry on January 5, 2013 at 2:59pm

thanks a lot guys I appreciate that. I will have to get me on e next check!! Living on SS is a bitch don't you know!!!. I'm working on a custom job at the moment with laminated neck (Maple w/ 1/4" walnut insert) and walnut fretboard. I don't have the box yet as my friend is going to provide the box. We will sand the top clean so we can do some laser engraving on it. It will be a 4 string with single coil pup. I haven't gotten set up yet for winding my own so I will have to buy one of those in. I'm planning on making a coffin case for it as well. What kind of a price range so you guys think that should go fo? you might want to take a look at my first attempt in order to reference the quality ( or lack thereof). I'm thinking around $250 anyway. That is without the case. What do you think a case should run? I will  make it with 1/4" plywood and line it with semi rigid foam and red long nap velour and cover it in black vinyl. Thanks again for your help guys and dolls. Man there are some absolutely fabulous works of art in the photo sections. I am especially enamored of the Lone Star Texas one, Texas Twangin I think he calls it and the ne with the really fancy scroll work in the sound hole!!

Comment by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on January 5, 2013 at 2:29pm

I second wormil. The Harbor Freight Japanese flush cut saw (I think that's the one he's referencing) is the one I use. Its .001" larger than Gitty's fret tangs so I vouch for it.

In fact, if you get one and don't like it, I will buy it off you for what you paid for it (~$9).

Comment by wormil on January 5, 2013 at 11:51am

Ken Henry, the Harbor Freight $8 pull size is the perfect size (.024) for frets, no hammering needed.

Comment by Oscar Myer on January 1, 2013 at 12:55am

Happy New Year to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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