Comment

Comment by gary sheldon on April 22, 2015 at 6:57pm

Cynthia.,

I put a wood ring reinforcement in, but later took it out because it killed too much sound.  Two screws seems adequate.

There is no piezo yet.  If I put one in, it will probably go onto the back.  I think that would work.

I just drilled the hanger screw carefully.  No insert,  

This neck is not laminated, except at the heel.  Anyway, glued layers are plenty strong.  I don't worry much about them.

You can see that I did fairly massive reinforcement at the front of the box and some more reinforcement at the sides.

Thanks........

Comment by Cynthia on April 22, 2015 at 6:31pm

Gary: Is the cat bowl a simple 2 screw attachment to the top; with a wood ring reinforcement?  Is there  piezo under the bridge? or acoustic. I have several dog/cat bowls ideas but the other sites are vague on how the bowl is supported. and piezo/pick-up placement. Also; did you simply screw the wood end of the hanger bolt in or use an insert.  Beautiful work ; do you worry about splitting the glued layers when installing tuners, and neck bolts?

Comment by gary sheldon on April 18, 2015 at 8:48am

Strung up now.  I am about half finished.  Needs frets, finish, PUP, set action, etc.  I am liking that neck drop and the neck to body connection.

Comment by gary sheldon on April 17, 2015 at 10:00am

I am using the "Will King" neck attachment method on this one.  It seems simpler and easier than my old method.  Also, there will be no neck to top contact to deaden the sound.  Since the back opens, the neck will be easily removeable.  I had to make a couple of jigs to make this possible.  Notice the nice, tight joint where the neck joins the body. 

Comment by gary sheldon on April 13, 2015 at 10:41am

 I now have my home made mitre box and homemade drill guide built.

Comment by gary sheldon on April 13, 2015 at 10:39am

Getting parts together for my cat bowl resonator uke.  I will use the Will King neck attachment method on this one.  The back will be openable.  Walnut neck, Maple fretboard.

Comment by Ronald Whitford on April 10, 2015 at 4:57pm

I have been cutting mine out with a dowel stick as part of the neck and attaching the tail at the end with a screw or a screweye for the strap.  I'm building on elike that right now.

Comment by gary sheldon on April 4, 2015 at 1:33pm

Will,

I built and tested my mitre box today.  I cut a heel back end cut and it worked perfectly.

I also got the square block together for the drill jig, but haven't drilled it yet.  Progressing nicely.  Thanks for your help.

Gary

Comment by Cynthia on April 3, 2015 at 2:35pm

Will, Um, dont have a table saw. My fix was to use the right angle 8" disc sander on my combo belt sander to get the 90 true on the cheepy chinese heel/neck.  Tenor length. The rest of your suggestions are just a blurr. Guess I have to blow some neck stock and boxes to grasp your expertise, l'll fail and return for the "Ah Ha" later,  and save for future growth, "come where?"

Comment by Will King on April 3, 2015 at 11:08am

I have used CB Gitty concert necks and Mainland tenor necks and I made a shim for the neck so that when I cut the neck angle, using a table saw, on the heel end, it will be square to the center of the neck and not to the neck taper/head stock angle.  For the concert neck I cut a piece of poplar to about 8 inchs or about 1/2" shorter than from the nut to the heel on the fret board side of the neck and glue about a 1/4" shim on one end.  I set the sliding cut off guide to the angle I want (The point of the guide farthest from the blade is set in). I set the nut area of the neck on the shim and position the heel about one blade width into the blade, than clamp the neck to the guide with the fret side of the neck to the guide and cut.  Hard to explain, but I will show it to you when you come.  Maybe I can make a video.  If you don't use the jig, the neck will be pointing off to the right.

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