Comment

Comment by Dave Green on November 16, 2014 at 10:40am

Thanks, Scott - that's very helpful.

Comment by gary sheldon on November 15, 2014 at 2:44pm

Very interesting method.   I won't be using a mag pup.  My thoughts have been that with the smaller body of a uke, one can't afford to have the mass of a thru body neck design.  Also, on a uke I want the sound hole centered as in a traditional uke.

I'll admit that I don't have much experience with this stuff, only been doing it about 9 months.

My neck joint seems to be holding up.  I have been carrying it around for the past few days.  I keep checking the action near the body end of the neck and it is not changing.  

I have to take the body off soon to put in the piezo.  At that time I will take more photos.

Comment by Scott aka Farmer Ted on November 15, 2014 at 12:49pm

Forgot to mention, this method really works well if you are installing mag pickups. The "heel" length is clear of any intrusion into the box from the pickups, in comparison to the typical "neck-thru" method that requires removing a good portion of neck in box to make space for pups.

Also, the tail end of the "heel" is anchored to the box with one or two screws, right into the end of it.

And, depending on bridge placement, you may need to provide a slender brace between "heel" piece underneath bridge location to avoid a collapsed soundboard. Doesn't need much.

Good luck.

Comment by Scott aka Farmer Ted on November 15, 2014 at 12:45pm

Hey Dave, I don't have any "inside the box during build" pictures, but these may give an idea of what I mean.

Both of these have hand made maple bolt on necks. They are attached to a piece of maple of the same width/height as the neck. They are cut to length, as to extend from inside the box at the tail end, forward and thru the front of box (you can see where they taper to appear as a regular heel).

Here you can see the bolts. Since the neck is from 1x2 (3/4" x 1.5"), I set the bolt holes at a 1" wide x 2" long orientation (or a little more, like 2.25"), so that the neck is well anchored to the "heel".

Sometimes I will use threaded brass inserts for the neck, that receive brass machine screws, rather than wood screws. And if I don't use a neck plate (as seen on regular electric guitars), I use finish washers, like in the above photo, to support the tension of the screws against the bottom of box/heel.

Hope this helps.

Comment by Dave Green on November 15, 2014 at 12:09pm

Scott, could you please provide any pictures of your suggested way of attaching the neck? Thanks (in anticipation!).

Comment by gary sheldon on November 14, 2014 at 5:12am

I meant to say"This whole deal with the HEEL is to keep the neck....

I thought there used to be a way of editing these posts after they were posted.

Comment by gary sheldon on November 14, 2014 at 5:08am

Last night, I took the clamp off the heel glue joint and it held.  I tuned it up this morning and everything still ok.  There is a tiny amount of neck drop, probably less than a degree.  I will accept that.  I wqas looking for 2 or so degrees.  There is about a 1/32" dip in the top from pressure from the bridge and tension from the neck.  That is fine.  The neck joint is supported 3 places:  It is glued and clamped to the top; and the heel is glued to the neck as well as being screwed to the front.  There is a very small gap between the back of the heel and the box front  I was trying to close that gap when the glue joint failed previously.     

So far everything looks good.

This whole deal with the resonator is to keep the neck from rising and the top from deforming under string tension.  I also have small braces under thetop.

To answer your comments Scott:  A couple of things:  One is that I would worry that the extra mass inside the box would be detrimental to the sound.  The other has to do with my method of getting access to the inside of the box.  I can take off the entire bottom by removing 5 screws.  4 of the screws go through the bottom of the box and into standoffs connected to the top.  The 5th screw is the one that goes through the heel and into the box front.  I think your method is a good one when using a deep resonator.

Thanks for the suggestion.  

Comment by Scott aka Farmer Ted on November 13, 2014 at 1:55pm

Hey Gary, you might consider an alternative method of neck installing. A length of 1x2 (3/4" x1.5" in real dimention, running inside and along bottom of box from tail to neck ends provides a great surface to then install the neck. The neck can either be glued or bolted on, similar to a solid body electric guitar. With a fretboard added to neck, the overall height of neck on top of the runner will usually provide good rexults for setting up a bridge with good string height above the top of the box. A small brace between the runner and under the bridge location will keep the top from stress induced collapse, and still provide plenty of box top tp resonate.

Comment by gary sheldon on November 13, 2014 at 1:20pm

Using Titebond.....oops Titebond Hide.  I use this on any joints I think I may have to unglue later.  If this fails, I will have to reshape the neck where it meets the body top a little.  Wish I had the tools to make a proper dovetail neck joint....

Comment by Richey Kay on November 13, 2014 at 9:32am

Yup, I don't doubt it - just speaking from my own experience!

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