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Paul, are you using "real" fret wire from StewMac / CBGitty? I didn't need any glue at all for that, as the teeth on the ridge grabbed the groove just fine. I will look at the pen for projects where I'm using some hand-rolled alternative (copper wire, cotter pin halves, etc.) -- thanks for the tip!
I'm curious what kind of saw do you use to cut the slots. I haven't found the perfect saw yet to get a tight enough fit without being too tight. I've been using a Crown hard back lately but it is a hair too wide and the wire just slips in but won't hold without glue. I like the japanese saws, hut I haven't figured out a way to control the depth of cut.
Tres Seaver said:Paul, are you using "real" fret wire from StewMac / CBGitty? I didn't need any glue at all for that, as the teeth on the ridge grabbed the groove just fine. I will look at the pen for projects where I'm using some hand-rolled alternative (copper wire, cotter pin halves, etc.) -- thanks for the tip!
Paul,
The "perfect saw" can be found at Stewart MacDonald. Its the best, but its expensive. If you want a good saw for much less, tho is NOT a fret saw, I bought one from Harbor Freight for around $10. Its .024" which is .001 greater than stewmac's fret tangs of .023" ( I suppose one could sand the excess out of the saw ). I've put frets in with this and it works really well. You will have to make your own depth gauge tho. There are solutions for that. - WY
Japanese Flush Cut Saw
Paul Doug said:I'm curious what kind of saw do you use to cut the slots. I haven't found the perfect saw yet to get a tight enough fit without being too tight. I've been using a Crown hard back lately but it is a hair too wide and the wire just slips in but won't hold without glue. I like the japanese saws, hut I haven't figured out a way to control the depth of cut.
Tres Seaver said:Paul, are you using "real" fret wire from StewMac / CBGitty? I didn't need any glue at all for that, as the teeth on the ridge grabbed the groove just fine. I will look at the pen for projects where I'm using some hand-rolled alternative (copper wire, cotter pin halves, etc.) -- thanks for the tip!
I second Harbor Freight's Japanese flush cut saw. I picked one up last week & it works just fine for frets. I clamp a block of wood to the neck as a guide since the saw blade is so flexible.
Wes Yates said:
Paul,
The "perfect saw" can be found at Stewart MacDonald. Its the best, but its expensive. If you want a good saw for much less, tho is NOT a fret saw, I bought one from Harbor Freight for around $10. Its .024" which is .001 greater than stewmac's fret tangs of .023" ( I suppose one could sand the excess out of the saw ). I've put frets in with this and it works really well. You will have to make your own depth gauge tho. There are solutions for that. - WY
Japanese Flush Cut Saw
Paul Doug said:
I'm curious what kind of saw do you use to cut the slots. I haven't found the perfect saw yet to get a tight enough fit without being too tight. I've been using a Crown hard back lately but it is a hair too wide and the wire just slips in but won't hold without glue. I like the japanese saws, hut I haven't figured out a way to control the depth of cut.
Tres Seaver said:
Paul, are you using "real" fret wire from StewMac / CBGitty? I didn't need any glue at all for that, as the teeth on the ridge grabbed the groove just fine. I will look at the pen for projects where I'm using some hand-rolled alternative (copper wire, cotter pin halves, etc.) -- thanks for the tip!
Not to out-do any of the others here... But I got the urge to make a jig from this thread. Scraps of wood left over and some dowel made a removable jig to cut square frets with. I also looked at StewMacs saw and decided to make an adjustable depth gauge. Once the guide reaches the top of the jig, the cut should be the depth. Nice and even. I just need some 1/8" screws to hold it with.
(The blade is not burnt. Just the overhead light vs the flash).
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