Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Habanera Hal on March 23, 2011 at 1:05pm

Okay, so like I said, I'm a visual kind of guy. If not placing the piezo inside the box, is this what is meant by "sandwiching" a piezo into the bridge?  I'm assuming there should be some glue/caulk/insulation between the piezo and the saddle, is this correct.

 

Wichita Sam said:

Cutting piezos is simple... if they are prewired, just cut a strip down the middle  (1/4-3/8") that borders the wires.  use metal shears or if you can get away with it, your wife's kitchen shears....  don't twist as you cut....

 

Yes, you must relief under the bridge plate so that there is room for the piezo and the wire "bump" when the wires attached.  Glue the metal to the face of the bridge's underside and then fill the void with something soft. (I used silicone caulk).  then glue the sandwich together......

 

hope this helps,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on March 23, 2011 at 1:21pm

Hal,

 

Most builders are doing a 2 piece sandwich with a relief in the top piece to accomodate the  thickness of the piezo....  Most often than not, I "sandwich" the piezo between a bridge plate that has the relief for the piezo and the top itself.  That why you ge minimum thickness above the top....  Then you adjust the height of the bridge with the saddle (bolt, bar, corian)...

 

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

Hal "PairsNPaint" Spalter said:

Okay, so like I said, I'm a visual kind of guy. If not placing the piezo inside the box, is this what is meant by "sandwiching" a piezo into the bridge?  I'm assuming there should be some glue/caulk/insulation between the piezo and the saddle, is this correct.

 

Wichita Sam said:

Cutting piezos is simple... if they are prewired, just cut a strip down the middle  (1/4-3/8") that borders the wires.  use metal shears or if you can get away with it, your wife's kitchen shears....  don't twist as you cut....

 

Yes, you must relief under the bridge plate so that there is room for the piezo and the wire "bump" when the wires attached.  Glue the metal to the face of the bridge's underside and then fill the void with something soft. (I used silicone caulk).  then glue the sandwich together......

 

hope this helps,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

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Permalink Reply by MichaelS Country Boy Guitars on March 24, 2011 at 1:02am

That is very simular to the way I do it and I think it would work well for you. The bridge piezo is much louder than in the boz, give it a try. On the top plate just don't cut the slot all the way thru so it won't hit the piezo.


Hal "PairsNPaint" Spalter said:

Okay, so like I said, I'm a visual kind of guy. If not placing the piezo inside the box, is this what is meant by "sandwiching" a piezo into the bridge?  I'm assuming there should be some glue/caulk/insulation between the piezo and the saddle, is this correct.

 

Wichita Sam said:

Cutting piezos is simple... if they are prewired, just cut a strip down the middle  (1/4-3/8") that borders the wires.  use metal shears or if you can get away with it, your wife's kitchen shears....  don't twist as you cut....

 

Yes, you must relief under the bridge plate so that there is room for the piezo and the wire "bump" when the wires attached.  Glue the metal to the face of the bridge's underside and then fill the void with something soft. (I used silicone caulk).  then glue the sandwich together......

 

hope this helps,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on March 24, 2011 at 3:28am

Mike, Hal,

 

I'm not sure that a slot is needed.... I regular use smooth bar (brass or stainless) on top of  a smooth bridge plate.  The tension of the strings hold it in place.  The advantage is that you can do minor intonation adjustments (distance and angle) if there isn't  a slot cut.  Once you cut the slot and glue the bridge plate, you are stuck with what it is good or bad....

 

just a thought,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

MichaelS Country Boy Guitars said:

That is very simular to the way I do it and I think it would work well for you. The bridge piezo is much louder than in the boz, give it a try. On the top plate just don't cut the slot all the way thru so it won't hit the piezo.


Hal "PairsNPaint" Spalter said:

Okay, so like I said, I'm a visual kind of guy. If not placing the piezo inside the box, is this what is meant by "sandwiching" a piezo into the bridge?  I'm assuming there should be some glue/caulk/insulation between the piezo and the saddle, is this correct.

 

Wichita Sam said:

Cutting piezos is simple... if they are prewired, just cut a strip down the middle  (1/4-3/8") that borders the wires.  use metal shears or if you can get away with it, your wife's kitchen shears....  don't twist as you cut....

 

Yes, you must relief under the bridge plate so that there is room for the piezo and the wire "bump" when the wires attached.  Glue the metal to the face of the bridge's underside and then fill the void with something soft. (I used silicone caulk).  then glue the sandwich together......

 

hope this helps,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by MichaelS Country Boy Guitars on March 24, 2011 at 4:33am

I put in a shallow groove, but I don't glue down the bridge plate so I can still tweek the intonation if needed. I use brass bar also and steel bar and sometimes threaded rod. It all works.  The slot holds the saddle nicely when played hard, some of mine have 'loose' tuning.


Wichita Sam said:

Mike, Hal,

 

I'm not sure that a slot is needed.... I regular use smooth bar (brass or stainless) on top of  a smooth bridge plate.  The tension of the strings hold it in place.  The advantage is that you can do minor intonation adjustments (distance and angle) if there isn't  a slot cut.  Once you cut the slot and glue the bridge plate, you are stuck with what it is good or bad....

 

just a thought,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

MichaelS Country Boy Guitars said:

That is very simular to the way I do it and I think it would work well for you. The bridge piezo is much louder than in the boz, give it a try. On the top plate just don't cut the slot all the way thru so it won't hit the piezo.


Hal "PairsNPaint" Spalter said:

Okay, so like I said, I'm a visual kind of guy. If not placing the piezo inside the box, is this what is meant by "sandwiching" a piezo into the bridge?  I'm assuming there should be some glue/caulk/insulation between the piezo and the saddle, is this correct.

 

Wichita Sam said:

Cutting piezos is simple... if they are prewired, just cut a strip down the middle  (1/4-3/8") that borders the wires.  use metal shears or if you can get away with it, your wife's kitchen shears....  don't twist as you cut....

 

Yes, you must relief under the bridge plate so that there is room for the piezo and the wire "bump" when the wires attached.  Glue the metal to the face of the bridge's underside and then fill the void with something soft. (I used silicone caulk).  then glue the sandwich together......

 

hope this helps,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Habanera Hal on March 24, 2011 at 12:26pm

MichaelS Country Boy Guitars said:

I put in a shallow groove, but I don't glue down the bridge plate so I can still tweek the intonation if needed. I use brass bar also and steel bar and sometimes threaded rod. It all works.  The slot holds the saddle nicely when played hard, some of mine have 'loose' tuning.

Wichita Sam said:

Mike, Hal,

 

I'm not sure that a slot is needed.... I regular use smooth bar (brass or stainless) on top of  a smooth bridge plate.  The tension of the strings hold it in place.  The advantage is that you can do minor intonation adjustments (distance and angle) if there isn't  a slot cut.  Once you cut the slot and glue the bridge plate, you are stuck with what it is good or bad....

 

just a thought,

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

 

 

So far I have made my bridges with a slot for the saddle so it can be adjusted up or down, and left the bridge itself held in place by the spring tension.

I think all ideas ares good and I like trying new methods, always looking for a better way.  Thanks guys!

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Permalink Reply by Skip Gilmore on April 11, 2016 at 1:09pm

It seems to me that the larger the size, the more feedback.

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Permalink Reply by Fomhorach on April 11, 2016 at 11:41pm

I found some piezos that have a large circular price of clear plastic attached to them extending out the edges by about 1/4".
I haven't tried them out yet due to a lack of soldering equipment. Has anyone ever used this type before?

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