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Permalink Reply by martin baker on December 12, 2013 at 1:08am

Sounds wise.

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on December 11, 2013 at 11:22pm

i usually glue the through-neck to a brace along the bottom of the box in the centre after taking a lid width depth off the neck. The lid lays against the top of the neck, not glued, leaving the fretboard 7mm above the lid. (-:

 

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on December 12, 2013 at 12:44am

have to agree with john,once you seal them,hard to change anything,sometimes even the ones you think are great develop annoying characteristics,after you,ve lived with it a while maybe,but not straight up i feel

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on December 12, 2013 at 12:53am

i've changed a few boxes by just removing the box from the neck - no big deal have loads of spare boxes, but the necks are recycleable!  my lids are screwed to the neck, not glued,  so any alterations and repairs can be made easily (-:

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Permalink Reply by Duke on December 12, 2013 at 10:44am

When you leave space between the top and the neck doesn't string tension on the bridge want to crush the top down?

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Permalink Reply by martin baker on December 12, 2013 at 11:39am

My bridge has a bigger"foot" so spreading the tension over a bigger area, seems to sound good too, to me anyway! 

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on December 13, 2013 at 1:01am

@Duke - yes the string tension on the bridge pushes, not crushes, down on the lid, but it will be well supported by the neck if it is braced to the bottom of the box, all nice and rigid, greater sustain! (-:

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Permalink Reply by jawbone on December 13, 2013 at 2:52am

Sorry - but I need clarification (and that's a big word this early) - would it work if you leave about and inch of neck to support the bridge but recess the rest of the neck to leave a freely vibrating lid?

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Permalink Reply by martin baker on December 13, 2013 at 3:09am

sounds OK. I'm in the start of some tryouts myself, so I have made 2 boxes out of 1/4" ply to run tryouts; I want to build a "cow horn" shape in the box to allow more sound "space", also on the test list is a  pet food resonator which will need also space for fitting.I had also some questions & the best advice I received was"try it" Good luck.

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Permalink Reply by RTZGUITARS on December 13, 2013 at 8:12am

I have built with the neck attached to the lid and spaced off and they do produce different sound. With fretted instruments you want neck to box angle to get the strings off the box this is a different problem. If the top isn't real wood I don't think it maters you just want the whole thing solid so it produces a clean sound, reso are another problem.

Here's the monkey wrench, the sound board is now joined to the box when built like this and with a stick neck set off the top it has a real wood guitar sound its small but they all are. This guitar is a 6 string so its over built and has a very solid sound not loud but is built to be in front of a Mic. The more ways you build the more sounds you'll hear. 

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Permalink Reply by Duke on December 13, 2013 at 10:10am

Great info, thanks guys!

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Permalink Reply by Order99 on December 14, 2013 at 7:54pm

 And just to add to the confusion...er, I mean OPTIONS:

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/easy-to-build-cigar-box-...

 Self contained Nut-to-bridge unit mounted Dulcimer-style on top of the soundboard! Although I do a lot of neck-through designs where the neck doesn't touch the soundboard, My first true success as a builder was based on the Uncle Crow design, and it was deceptively loud for its size in Acoustic mode. 

 -Or, as wiser posters have noted previously-There Are No Rules. Try one of everything and see what you prefer.

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