Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Tim Lang on March 6, 2012 at 1:26pm

The distance from the nut to the bridge should be double the distance from the nut to the 12th fret.  (or to put it another way, the distance from the nut to the 12th fret should be the same distance as the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge).

I put my bridge about 2 1/2 inches from the edge of my box (not sure of the actual distance right now) and it sounds pretty good.  (Mind you, used a 22" scale)  I'm not sure about how it will change the acoustics to move the bridge closer to the center, but it seems to me that the bridge may vibrate more and give a bigger bass response (like how a trampline moves further in the center than it does on the outside).

if you want more playable frets (and your neck isn't long enough) you could always let your fretboard come onto the body like they do in regular acoustic guitars.  There's no real reason to stop the fretboard at the end of the neck...

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bad Finger (Eric) on March 6, 2012 at 3:30pm

I've never used that big a box, but I would move the bridge up so you get to play at least to the 12th fret without hitting the box. Continue running the fingerboard over the lid.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Honsik on March 7, 2012 at 12:10am

I think I have to go for a playable neck with 17 fret (this fret is from the nut 15 61/64"or 405,1 mm). This will place my bridge 8.42" (214 mm) from the end of the box) and when I use the fingerboard which is 20.35"( 517 mm) I have to cut off 4.33"( 110 mm). You all think this will be playable?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by robert jones on March 7, 2012 at 2:09am

When I run into placement challenges I usually do a full size layout on butcher paper so I can move bits around to various configurations before committing.

Bridge placement on acoustics seems to work better when situated between 1/3 and 1/2 of the box length from the end. It has to do with wave transmission to the resonating surface.

In an electric it's not as critical because an amplifier is relied on for increased sound volume.

Since your box is nominally 18" long you could place the bridge 1/3 of the box length in and have the playable 17th fret, this should be functional without having to cut off any of the fret board length.

Physically lay the thing out on paper first to be certain.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by robert jones on March 8, 2012 at 12:02am

Now that's some piss poor advice.

Guess your ego got in the way of you comprehending that he's intending to "buy a fingerboard precut with 25,5" fretscale" .

If he should be naive enough to follow your advice on this matter and try to use that fretboard at your suggested "23 or thereabouts" it will be impossible to play fretted.

You don't really grasp the harmonics thing either do you?

Go measure up a selection of acoustic guitars and do the ratio of bridge placement to body length. There's a reason the bridges will fall close to the 1/3 point.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on March 8, 2012 at 12:53am

i do all my builds with a (some precut) 25.5" scale length, most frets go uo to 18 with a 9 or 10 inch length box (18" is huge...!?) with plenty of room for the bridge - 2 or 3 inches in from the box tail end, with your setup the bridge would be right  in the centre -  let me get some better figures when i get home... (-;

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on March 9, 2012 at 8:14am

Really man, don't tell the guy to build 23" scale on a neck fretted for 25.5"= recipe for disaster!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on March 9, 2012 at 8:15am

For 25.5" scale, nut to bridge has to be , well, 25.5" period.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Honsik on March 9, 2012 at 8:18am

Just ordered my 25,5"fretboard and will arrive next week. I'll keep you informed about the process and which place I make for the bridge. Tnx all for the advice so far.

 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on March 9, 2012 at 8:17am

unless you are gonna compensate it, then it would be a tad shorter, and I use tad in the scientific sense of course!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Honsik on September 23, 2013 at 9:59pm

Well guy's due tosome circumstances I haven't been working for a long time on my CBG. Now I'm picking up again and again the work. In addition to all mentioned above I have finished the neck and the bridge. On my BIG box the bridge is app. in the middle.

Now I have 2 choices for stringends to attach.

1: At the end of a tailpiece which has the disadvantage of length and not so steep from the top of the bridge to the end of the box.Pro is to have the full top of the box vibrating which gives better sound I think.

2: Attach the strings by making attachment closer to the bridge by drilling and using rivets. Gives morre pressure on the bridge cause there is a steep angle. Con is that the vibrating area will be disturbed  a bit.

Which one is tje best? All help and advice is welcome!!!!!!!!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by The Capo Kid on September 24, 2013 at 9:01am

 Post up some pics of the build , this will give us a better understanding of your problem

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• Next ›
• Page