I'm working on my first ever commissioned CBG and I've got a few questions for the more knowledgeable folks out there.

 

I've heard that fretboards are ideally "conditioned" with a little linseed oil. Is this correct and are there any alternatives to linseed oil?

 

I'm also looking into trying some epoxy inlays for the first time and was wondering if anyone had recommendations on a brand/type of epoxy or pigments (I'd like a nice pearl look).

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Everybody has their own opinions on how to "finish" the fretboard. My personal preference is 3 heaping coats of tung oil finish, rubbed with fine steel wool in between each coat. But like I said, everyone has their own favorite technique.

 

You're best off digging through the plenty of old discussions on this board for some ideas, and then doing a few tests. Find out what you like to work with.

(1)    Sand it to 600 grit.

(2)    Christen it with sweat.

(3)    Whenever you change strings, clean it with some old underwear and Stewart MacDonald Preserve Polish.

Linseed oil never gets hard in my opinion, stays sticky, tung oil and fine steel wool guy here also. I've messed around some with tinted epoxy and just didn't like the finished product. It always undercut when I tried to level it. I firmly believe it has to do with trying to get enough pigment powder in it weakens the epoxy. It's really not that much more work to get round MOP inlay and a brad bit and or light colored dowel rods. A drill press really helps here.

Don

I really appreciate the feedback guys. The reason I asked about the linseed oil is that I couldn't find any at the local stores. Tung Oil is pretty plentiful, though. I'll have to test it out...

 

The reason I wanted to use epoxy is because I want to carve out some custom fret markings, not just the standard round ones.

Jason, If you have an automotive paint supply store in your area ask about tinting powder for pearl finishes and the like. Woodcraft stores or perhaps Ace hardware carry a 24 set expoxy. Don't even bother with the 5 minute crap, that's for little girls. You may have better luck than I with the process. Premix the epoxy then add the tint powder. Pick up with toothpick whatever apply to inlay. Let it cure at least two days before sanding flat. Try a trial piece. You might think about using crushed stone and epoxy for inlay.

http://www.arizonagourds.com/inlace.html

Don

Jason W. said:

I really appreciate the feedback guys. The reason I asked about the linseed oil is that I couldn't find any at the local stores. Tung Oil is pretty plentiful, though. I'll have to test it out...

 

The reason I wanted to use epoxy is because I want to carve out some custom fret markings, not just the standard round ones.

Ah, excellent. Thats what I was looking for. I'll try things out and post how they go.

 

Thanks for the info guys!

Don Thompson said:

Jason, If you have an automotive paint supply store in your area ask about tinting powder for pearl finishes and the like. Woodcraft stores or perhaps Ace hardware carry a 24 set expoxy. Don't even bother with the 5 minute crap, that's for little girls. You may have better luck than I with the process. Premix the epoxy then add the tint powder. Pick up with toothpick whatever apply to inlay. Let it cure at least two days before sanding flat. Try a trial piece. You might think about using crushed stone and epoxy for inlay.

http://www.arizonagourds.com/inlace.html

Don

Jason W. said:

I really appreciate the feedback guys. The reason I asked about the linseed oil is that I couldn't find any at the local stores. Tung Oil is pretty plentiful, though. I'll have to test it out...

 

The reason I wanted to use epoxy is because I want to carve out some custom fret markings, not just the standard round ones.

Wet sand with olive oil.
Just crazy enough to work!! 

Josh Gayou (SmokehouseGuitars) said:
Wet sand with olive oil.

SO, I've done some experimenting. I tried a 330 epoxy mixture and an "opaque epoxy pigment". The result were not very good. It didn't stand out very well and it never fully dried.

 

Now I'm playing alchemist and trying some stuff with epoxy and embossing powder. I did a heated mixture last night that hardened up very nicely, but only in the can I was mixing it in. If I could just get it from the can to the inlays now...

Heh, trust me.  it does.

Jason W. said:
Just crazy enough to work!! 

Josh Gayou (SmokehouseGuitars) said:
Wet sand with olive oil.
That's a good link Don.  I've been thinking of trying inlace for a future neck.

Don Thompson said:

Jason, If you have an automotive paint supply store in your area ask about tinting powder for pearl finishes and the like. Woodcraft stores or perhaps Ace hardware carry a 24 set expoxy. Don't even bother with the 5 minute crap, that's for little girls. You may have better luck than I with the process. Premix the epoxy then add the tint powder. Pick up with toothpick whatever apply to inlay. Let it cure at least two days before sanding flat. Try a trial piece. You might think about using crushed stone and epoxy for inlay.

http://www.arizonagourds.com/inlace.html

Don

Jason W. said:

I really appreciate the feedback guys. The reason I asked about the linseed oil is that I couldn't find any at the local stores. Tung Oil is pretty plentiful, though. I'll have to test it out...

 

The reason I wanted to use epoxy is because I want to carve out some custom fret markings, not just the standard round ones.

I have painted over 400 guitars in my life.  I have also experimented with many finishes on guitars.  Polymerized tung oil is superior to linseed oil.  One of my electric guitars is finished with Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil, this finish is very natural looking and very durable.  You can research this product here:

  http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/tung-oil/why/

 

It's not cheap, but it is the best tung oil I have ever used.  

 

I have done some custom inlays in the past.  I bought some nice turquoise from a rock hound once who told me I could smash the turquoise into a powder and mix that with epoxy to do custom inlays with it.  I tried it and it worked great.  Just fill your inlay and sand it flush after it hardens.    

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