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Permalink Reply by BenBob on June 13, 2010 at 10:18am

You do want the nut slots to match the holes at the tailpiece, but if they're a little off it really won't hurt anything. The angle that the strings go into nut slots matters though. If the strings don't have enough angle to push down into the nut slot, you'll need to use some kind of string tree. If they put too much pressure on the sides of the nut slots, and that pressure isn't balanced, the nut will have to be securely attached so that it won't move.

Since you're using a floating bridge, you can try different things and see what works. You can start building without really even worrying about it!

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Permalink Reply by Mister Scott on June 13, 2010 at 10:39am

Thanks for the help, BenBob! Any advice about angling the strings and machine-head location?

BenBob said:

You do want the nut slots to match the holes at the tailpiece, but if they're a little off it really won't hurt anything. The angle that the strings go into nut slots matters though. If the strings don't have enough angle to push down into the nut slot, you'll need to use some kind of string tree. If they put too much pressure on the sides of the nut slots, and that pressure isn't balanced, the nut will have to be securely attached so that it won't move.

Since you're using a floating bridge, you can try different things and see what works. You can start building without really even worrying about it!

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Permalink Reply by Ben on June 13, 2010 at 10:55am

How about some input from another Ben? I find that if you're going to use the simple 1X2 piece of poplar, cutting/sanding down the headstock to a 1/2" for the tuning posts to stick through will give you enough downward angle on the nut. You can run into problems the further away from the nut you get. Don't forget to wind the string so that it is coming from as close to the bottom of the post as possible. This usually eliminates the need for string trees (unless you need them to line up the string right for the nut).

As for the bridge, since it's you're first I'd go with an eye bolt. I understand your concern about it not being high enough. You may actually get some buzz if it isn't. Just take a scrap piece of wood (I love using the scraps that are usually inside the cigar box) and stick this under the bolt. It'll give you enough lift, and its hard to screw up.

Good luck on your first build. I'd say just get started. There are a lot of guys on here that over analyze their first builds (guilty party here). I think you'll find that getting a decent sound is a lot easier than you're expecting but getting a pretty build is a lot harder than you're expecting. My advice...go for the decent sound so you have something to entertain yourself with while you're pouring your sweat into that pretty one (yeah right, like there will ever be just one more...)

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Permalink Reply by uncle Lou on June 14, 2010 at 4:20am

7/16 steel rod for bridge and a woood screw flattened on bottom where it lays on frettboard works real goood

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Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on June 17, 2010 at 3:39pm

This discussion brings to mind something I read some time ago about movable bridge instruments like the banjo. In the article, they talk about a 13 to 15 degree "string break angle", which is the angle the string should "break" (I prefer the word "bend", as "break" makes me think "break into two") over the bridge when setting up the instrument. Things that can affect this measurement include the placement of the bridge over the resonator (remember the rule: scale length (or VSL) should be twice the distance as from the nut to the 12th fret on a chromatic scaled instrument), the height of the bridge itself, and the placement of the tail piece. The other place we see this approximate 15 degree string bend is on headstock designs where the head is tilted back about 15 degrees from the angle of the neck for better string retention in the slots of the nut. (Here, the height of the hole in the post of your tuner can be another complicating factor. ) So, it seems to me that the traditional angle to bend the stings over both the nut and the bridge is about 15 degrees (give or take a couple of degrees). Maybe this is a good rule to use as a starting point in your design.

On one of my canjos, I made two 15 degree cuts on the canjo stick and turned the cut off pieces around and glued them back on to the stick again (and I reinforced these 2 joints with wood screws.) The first cut piece was for the "head" of my canjo stick, and the second piece was to hold can of my canjo. The resulting canjo stick bends up in the middle so as to lower the action and makes fretting the instrument easier.

Just my 2 cents worth...

-RM


BenBob said:

You do want the nut slots to match the holes at the tailpiece, but if they're a little off it really won't hurt anything. The angle that the strings go into nut slots matters though. If the strings don't have enough angle to push down into the nut slot, you'll need to use some kind of string tree. If they put too much pressure on the sides of the nut slots, and that pressure isn't balanced, the nut will have to be securely attached so that it won't move.
Since you're using a floating bridge, you can try different things and see what works. You can start building without really even worrying about it!

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Permalink Reply by Crow on June 17, 2010 at 6:32pm

at the risk of looking like i'm self promoting a little too often here on the site... LOL (i'm not sellling anything...)

here's a good place to get started. at least check all of the videos and see if any of your questions are answered. the whole reason i developed my method of build was for first timers and those without cash...

here:

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/easy-to-build-cigar-box-...


see if my page helps you in any way. if you've got questions after that, fire away!

good luck with your first build, it's the start of an awesome journey!!!!!

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Permalink Reply by St Ginger on June 18, 2010 at 12:14am

Sorry to hijack the post a little, but i was just wondering what KISS actually stands for? I've seen it a couple of times, and can't work out the acronym. Thanks

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Permalink Reply by MichaelS Country Boy Guitars on June 18, 2010 at 1:42am

KISS = Keep It Simple, Stupid

St Ginger said:

Sorry to hijack the post a little, but i was just wondering what KISS actually stands for? I've seen it a couple of times, and can't work out the acronym. Thanks

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on June 18, 2010 at 7:39am

one thing to be wary of Scotty..
if ur fretting ur neck the difference between just right and oops too deep, buzzy and ugly with nut slots is bugger all.. its very frustrating to slot ur nut too deep..
consider a zero fret, it helps plenty..
in terms of lining the slots up, leave it till u string up..
then u can set the string right where u want it, mark the line, back off the string tension and get it out of the way, and slot away..
its worth leaving it to this point bcos there might be a little trial and error with the depth of the slots..
ps.. an old string (wound) makes a good file for slots..

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Permalink Reply by L.J. on June 19, 2010 at 12:36am

I use a triangle file, always making sure the inside of the bridge or nut. (meaning towards the center of the guitar) is a lil higher than the outsides(towards the tuners/stoptail) I make the nut 1st to fit my neck width. Then lock it into my vice.Depending on the amount of strings I measure alot. if your doing 3 strings its very easy. With a 3 string i find the center and make a mark(sharpie) then I measure out to the outer strings. make sure your outer strings are a lil inside the side of the neck for comfort. I always make sure that I allow a tiny bit of extra space at the top(fatter) string so the string thickness doesnt become a spacing hinderance. Then I line the bridge up with the new nut. Make my center mark, then when I do the outer strings I make them just a lil wider than the nut slots.(barely bigger) Intonation usually makes the bridge installed at an angle with the bottom sting being a lil closer to the nut than the top. so when I cut my bridge slots I file them at a slight angle to accomodate proper intonation. My biggest problem when I was new was new was the strings popping out of my bridge. I learned that when I file my middle string I use the triangle file with the point straight down. When I file my outer strings I twist it a bit so the inside of the strings lays against a flatter surface in the string slot. I hope this helps, and doesnt confuse you. Try to remember your first build is very special. Its the beggining of more to come. And when you look back at it.It will always be your favorite whether its perfect or not. Its also the beggining of a learning experience that never seems to stop growing.

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